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Routes in Barney's Rubble

5.6 crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
5.7 Face T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
5.8 crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
5.9 Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, TR, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,236 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tom Bath on Dec 16, 2009 with updates from Andrew Leader
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Day Use Only and No Campfires Details

Description

Easy climbing left of a huge slabby boulder gains the crack. Lieback and jam the clean crack while utilizing good holds on the face. The final moves involve bypassing a flake with a few mildly intimidating undercling moves.

A 5.10 TR variation climbs the left edge of the boulder on the right rather that the blocky corner.

Location

The right crack on the left wall.

Protection

Gear to 2.5". Doubles of 0.75-2 strongly recommended. Bolted anchor

Photos

Isaac
Portland
 
Isaac   Portland
 
Great easy route! My partner lead this with very minimal trad experience. Takes gear well. It is possible to go straight over the flake (instead of around to the right using underclings). Aug 5, 2018
Andrew Leader
Bellevue, WA
 
Andrew Leader   Bellevue, WA
 
I wouldn't recommend this for a first trad lead. Difficult to check your placements since it's a leaning crack, and the route is slippery from travel. The crux involves placing a piece blindly under the undercling. I definitely would have hated this for my first trad lead.

Be sure to have doubles of 0.75-2. We didn't use anything else. Sep 9, 2018

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