A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Access Issue: Day Use Only and No Campfires
Details
Day use only and no campfires in the Forestland/Barney's Rubble parking area and vicinity.
Description
This route starts with a slightly overhanging hand crack in an alcove. The jams are solid but the right wall makes the moves to the lip a little awkward. Once above the overhang the crack widens and the difficulty eases.
[Hide Photo] Leading the very short crux hand/fist crack in the middle of the route.
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber on the nice 5.8 crack at Barney's. The crack to the right is the 5.6.
[Hide Photo] View of the route from the belay up to the start of the hand/fist crack where the difficulty begins. I'm placing a BD #2 to protect the beginning of the hand/fist crack, after back cleaning a…
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was super fun, well all 10 feet of the vertical hand/fist crack anyway ;) This seems to be great example of an easy route that requires crack technique. Two sport climbers in our party were unable to top rope it, including a 5.10 sport leader. When we were done another group tried to lead it, but couldn't figure out how to enter the overhanging start of the hand/fist crack and bailed.
If your hand and fist crack technique is not good, you will probably find this much harder than 5.8!
I'm a wimp and sewed it up with a BD #3 down on the bulge before the crack, and 2 or 3 #2s, a #1, and a large hex up above. You can back clean the #3 in the bulge and use it again above.
Dec 24, 2016
[Hide Comment] Do not underestimate this route! After climbing half a dozen 5.8's around the Leavenworth area, this one was the toughest for me. Found myself reaching deep to get the jams and was thoroughly exhausted after just 10 feet of climbing. I thought my technique was improving, but evidently not...
Aug 5, 2018
[Hide Comment] Climbed this during the Leavenworth Rockfest crack skills clinic. Pretty difficult even with instructor guidance. Only 2/6 of us who attempted the crux were able to do it and then finish the route. It was raining. Go up a small crack. Then at the first ledge is a high foot jam and hand jam crack. This was the crux for me, but not for anyone else - everyone else seemed to just jam the bulge and step up really easily. I had issues torquing an arm with a foot jammed and the other arm not being able to reach. Maybe height was the factor, as I was the shortest at 5'3" and inflexible. First time up I got a boost there from the instructor with a thigh step. That was humbling. Jams up that sequence. Get on top another ledge. The actual crux starts. The high foot jam to get off the ground here is actually not as high as the first and the wall doesn't bulge so in my opinion it's easier (though still hard for a newbie) to get a hand jam and foot jam and rise up off the ledge. The next few jams continue the crux. Since we were all TRing we placed a cam to keep the rope out of the crack. An old rope is actually already stuck in the crack. After the crux there are some usable face holds, and easier sequences of crack moves. Then the crack widens and it gets slabby; you can go nearly hands-free with foot and thigh jams. Gave it a second run up and did the move I skipped earlier yet was still flabbergasted with the difficulty. Jammed left foot and then literally dynoed up the crack, threw a right hand into the crack and immediately made a fist to catch the rock, then slotted left hand and worked up after some right foot flailing. Definitely a Hail Mary technique, but it got the job done. The route didn't feel like Hell the second time, lol. Instructor said this route was FAed a long time ago, is sandbagged and goes more like 5.9.
May 25, 2019
[Hide Comment] In a world where MP comments downgrade and sandbag routes left and right, this route seems to be an interesting exception-- the exact opposite! I guess I have to do my part...
All jokes aside, this route felt very much like a textbook 5.8 to me. Bring a #4 if you want to sew it up where it gets a little wide after pulling the bulge.
Aug 10, 2020
[Hide Comment] First time I did the route as a novice I thought it was quite hard for the grade. Did it again recently, it might have a bit of thrutch to it, but if your body position is correct the jams are straight forward and the movement not technically hard. It's definitely easier than classic crack (mostly because classic crack is as greasy as kfc).
Apr 5, 2021
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
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Bellevue, WA
Portland, OR
If your hand and fist crack technique is not good, you will probably find this much harder than 5.8!
I'm a wimp and sewed it up with a BD #3 down on the bulge before the crack, and 2 or 3 #2s, a #1, and a large hex up above. You can back clean the #3 in the bulge and use it again above. Dec 24, 2016
Portland
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
All jokes aside, this route felt very much like a textbook 5.8 to me. Bring a #4 if you want to sew it up where it gets a little wide after pulling the bulge. Aug 10, 2020
Kent, WA