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Routes in Blasphemy Wall

Bloody Mary S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dark Boy S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Dude S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
F-Dude S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Fall of Man S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
High Flames Drifter S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
I saw Jesus at the chains S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Necessary Evil S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Route of All Evil S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
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Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Boone Speed et al.
Page Views: 4,231 total · 41/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Dec 12, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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3 Opinions

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Access Issue: Stage II Fire Restrictions and Closures in Place as of 8:00 AM May 23 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Previously excluded from the Mountain Project because I couldn't give it sixty million stars, but accurately described on rockclimbing.com: "Fall of Man, 5.13b. This route gets progressively harder until you take a long whipper at the top."

I remember reading somewhere that Fall of Man was the first "futuristic" line in the VRG. It is a world-class stretch of perfect limestone... a breathtaking and outrageously intimidating line up the very center of the Blasphemy Wall.

Climb up the steep A-shaped recess on hand jams and pockets to an intermediate anchor (this is Fall of Mouse - maybe a 5.11 something?), don't stop, and instead perform a powerful move to an angling hold... this can be a body tension reach or deadpoint, but either way it's a dramatic entry onto the upper wall. Follow vertical slots and pockets up 50' of gently overhanging climbing past many difficult moves and hard earned clips, resting at a ledge or higher at a hueco just as the angle eases to vertical. Say goodbye to your belayer, grab the credit card, and launch up into the slab crux!!! Several clips worth of terror, jake brakes, and beautifully sculpted pockets and edges culminate with a final 20' runout to the chains.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Fixed draws. Be prepared to whip. A very stretchy 70m is required to lower off the chains, but it is probably better to work the route from the last two bolts.

Photos

Michael Sokoloff
Spokane, WA
Michael Sokoloff   Spokane, WA
I've got to try this one especially since it seems like we like a lot of the same types of routes.

What is a jake brake? Jan 8, 2010
skinny legs and all
Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
skinny legs and all   Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jake braking is the loud chattering exhaust noise sound you will inevitably be barraged with by the copious semi trucks driving on I-15. It is produced when truckers use the compression release engine brake on their diesel engines to decelerate. Many municipalities that have truck routes pass through residential or business areas prohibit jake braking. Feb 14, 2014

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