Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Upper Measles Wall

Cabin Fever T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Scratch Fever S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chilblain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Craterface T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
El Muerte Rojo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Moon Fever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hydrophobia T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Little Fever T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Short Person's Disease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: November 2009
Page Views: 604 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Nov 8, 2009
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


14 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Climb up the pockmarked face, passing three bolts to reach the short crack and then an obscure ledge (V1). Continue up the short face above using the right-slanting crack.
Var 1 5.8 G: Continue diagonally up left, passing one more bolt (the top bolt of El Muerte Rojo).

Location

Near the center of the cliff, 12' right of a crack (i.e. El Muerte Rojo) that almost reaches to the bottom of the cliff, and directly below a short crack 30' above.

Protection

3 Quickdraws and a few small to large cams.

Photos

Spencer Nowak
Dover, NH
 
Spencer Nowak   Dover, NH
 
With a few cams for the crack at the top, this does not seem like PG-13. Jul 5, 2016
I didn't feel like this was PG13 Sep 3, 2015
J. Serpico
Saratoga County, NY
J. Serpico   Saratoga County, NY
One thing about this climb is the 5.7 rating isn't necessarily a sandbag, but it's the grade for virtually every move on the route while clipping bolts. The other issue is that when you take your eyes off your feet you lose your place as to where you planned to move next, because the whole wall looks the same. Finally, accept that unless you have 5.12 pocket strength on your fingers, your hands are just for balance you'll take a few less falls trying to find a big hold, maybe! Great climb but feels a lot harder than 5.7. May 18, 2015
Jay Harrison  
 
A harder variation, 5.8+, climbs to the left of the bolts, foregoing the crack, instead arcing leftward to reach the large sloping ledge just right of the bolt at the top of El Muerte Rojo. Nov 18, 2009