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Routes in Upper Measles Wall

Cabin Fever T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cat Scratch Fever S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Chilblain T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Craterface T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R
El Muerte Rojo T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Full Moon Fever S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Hydrophobia T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Little Fever T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Short Person's Disease T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: April 3, 2010
Page Views: 100 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Harrison on Apr 12, 2010
Admins: Jim Lawyer

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Description [Suggest Change]

Climb up to the crack on good holds, then follow the crack to its end. Step right and up (crux) to reach another crack; use this and the face on the left to reach a good ledge.
An oak tree lies right at the top; making a convenient TR anchor, but you may want directionals, as the cracks do slant away from it.

Location [Suggest Change]

A discontinuous crack system near the right end of the Upper Measles Wall, with a lower, 20' long crack that ends about 10' off the ground.
Descent: walk climber's right off the ledge and back down around.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Cams, Tri-cams, medium-large Stoppers

Photos

Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
  5.6
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
  5.6
are u sure this isnt a 5.3+++. maybe its me but i would rather get a case of the measles than lead this again. way more challenging than it looks and fun none the less. Aug 26, 2012
Jay Harrison  
 
Ben raises a good point. Measles Walls routes are a different breed; grading them is tricky. Much like first-time visitors to the Gunks feel the ratings there are horrendously sandbagged, only to adjust their opinions as they acclimate to the unusual conditions, so too at these crags.
Don't expect to lead anything here at your "usual" grade when you first visit. Notch it back several grades, more than you would usually do at an unfamiliar crag.
That said, once you've mastered the "Measles Wall Hop", you will begin to waltz up routes like Hydrophobia and Cracklosis, where there are not only those sloping divots, but cracks as well. Sep 13, 2012

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