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Routes in Friction Slab

Split Pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sundance S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turner Prize Tower, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
Unnamed wide start right of split pinnacle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Waltz T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Y-Crack Simulator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 801 total, 8/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Oct 26, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A good introduction to Indian Creek, Split Pinnacle tackles a tight hands to fist crack up the center of a short leaning tower. Disappointing in length, its still a nice and quick stop if you're looking to get a feel for hand cracks.

Easily accessible from the road, This is a fun route to do if you're short on time, just arriving, or looking for a mellow warm-up or warm-down.

Start by diving right in on the thinnest part of the crack. Squirm your way up the generous start until you can start burying those hands with solid jams. Keep climbing til the hands turn to fists, give a grunt and pop out on top at a chain anchor.

Location

Located about 0.6 miles past Newspaper Rock and on the right just after the Friction Slabs is Split Pinnacle. Parking can be found just prior too and on the left by the campground. Walk down the road until the crack becomes visible. Its the only obvious splitter set about 15 off the road.

Protection

Cams from 3/4" to 4" (.75-#3 bd or equivalent). Chain anchor.

Photos

Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
I know its not a classic, but I just love this little route. A short approach with a nice shady spot under an oak for summer climbing. I never seem to hit this climb right. Came in winter and it was freezing then came back in summer and it was cooking. Had it to ourselves, though. Jul 4, 2011