Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Pamela Pack
Page Views: 220 total · 35/month
Shared By: rkrum on Nov 16, 2018
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

A worthy wide crack roadside attraction and a fitting tribute to Craig Luebben's memory, this route is named after his daughter, Giulia.

A beautiful and deceptively challenging bomb bay flare start leads to moderate 9" offwidthing, past a bolt to the base of the final, varnished 9" roof guarding the chains.

Location

This route is located 1.6 miles past newspaper rock. See photo below for what you will be looking for from the road.

Protection

#6 for crux start, vg9, 1 bolt. The final roof protects with a #6 in the back, or a vg9 might be a welcome piece depending on how you climb it.

Photos

rkrum
Here and there
  5.10d
rkrum   Here and there
  5.10d
This is better than my sad pictures make it look. Just as good if not better move for move than any other 5.10+ offwidth in the area. Kind of like vedauwoo but without the pain.

Cool to see the route was included in Karl Kelly's book, but the 5.11+ grade was strange. I thought the route had been called 5.10d by the FA and would agree after climbing the route. Nov 16, 2018
rkrum. When including this route in the Creek Freak book, I got all beta INCLUDING the grade from the first ascentionist herself. Pamela Shanti Pack... When possible, for all routes that I found out who did the FA, I always took their beta and even their own descriptions. Nov 24, 2018
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10d
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10d
Recommended rack/protection placement is as follows:
#6 Camalot, pushed until the pod
VG 9 until crack gets too wide. Place a #4 Big Bro here and take the VG 9 with you
1 quickdraw for the bolt
#6 Camalot deep in the roof crack
VG 9 moved out the roof crack as far as you can manage

Also, a video of Pamela crushing it on a fast TR warmup on the route: youtu.be/XJXaFnuQIDI Apr 29, 2019