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Routes in Mad Meadows

Alpine Feel V0 4
Amphitheater, The V3 6A
Barnacles V1 5
Break, The V2 5+
Bushmen V4+ 6B+
Crimps, The V5- 6C
Crimpsqueak V8 7B
Dish, The V1 5
Dr. Doom V2 5+
Drugstore Cowboy V3 6A
Flake, The V4 6B
Flounder V2 5+
Foot Fumpkin V4 6B
Hanta Man V9 7C
Heir Apparent V0 4
Hole, The V6 7A
Hueco Route, The V1 5
Jib, The V8 7B
Lamb, The V3 6A
Madvillian V2 5+
No Pain No Grain V5 6C
Ockham's Razor V5 6C
Peephole, The V10-11 8A
Pimpsqueak V9 7C
Pocket Rocket V3 6A
Pocket, The V4 6B PG13
Pruning Shears V1 5
Rail, The V3 6A
Rudder, The V1 5 R
Sail, The V9 7C
Scoop, The V2 5+
Shard, The V5 6C
Spongepad Squarepad V3 6A
Squarepusher V3 6A
Superman V10 7C+
Swordfish V4+ 6B+
Tentacles, The V3 6A
Undercling, The V5- 6C
Wooly Mammoth V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,027 total, 61/month
Shared By: Peter Franzen on Oct 21, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is, in my opinion, the finest boulder problem in Leavenworth. Lines don't get any more pure or aesthetic than this, and the movement ranges from technical, to gymnastic, to purely powerful as you progress from start to finish.

Start by climbing the arete on good holds to the flat edge at the beginning of the roof. Set your feet and fire your right hand out behind you to a good sloper on the arete. From here, a mix of squeezing, heel-hooking, and scumming will bring you to the crux throws at the end. Toss for the finishing jug then make a couple more delicate moves to top out.

Location

Far end of Mad Meadows.

Protection

A few pads and at least 1 attentive spotter. The fall from the crux seems much worse than it actually is; no matter how much it feels like it you won't land on the big rock below you.

Photos

youtube.com/watch?v=xifgLh0…

Definitely worth making it out to Leavenworth just to climb this proud boulder. Even under mildly wet conditions, the rock maintained a decent amount of friction and the beta will vary for each climber. A true classic. Oct 21, 2014
ktaylor
Bay Area, CA
 
ktaylor   Bay Area, CA
 
Pimpsqueak from kristaylorphoto.com on Vimeo. Mar 1, 2013
V9?

Either way, it's awesome. Oct 18, 2012
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
To add a little history: way, way back in the day (2000 or so?) when modern Leavenworth bouldering was in its youth, this problem was called Pipsqueak. At V6, it featured a large horn jug at the end of the roof that subsequently ripped off, transforming it into the more difficult version of today. May 21, 2012
ferrells  
 
Completely agree. I usually only boulder when I have scared myself too silly to want to rope climb, and need a day off, but this problem is of an entirely different caliber. Even for me, it merits a trip to Leavenworth all on its own. Jun 25, 2010
seand
Seattle, WA
  V9
seand   Seattle, WA
  V9
Fantastic movements, all feet and hands are where they need to be. If you love heel hooks, love dangling from rock and want a flowy Leavenworth classic (possibly the best in Leavenworth; this one is not to be missed. Jan 22, 2010