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Pimpsqueak

V8, Boulder,  Avg: 4 from 123 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > * Bouldering in… > Mad Meadows > Pimpsqueak Boulder
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Description

This is, in my opinion, the finest boulder problem in Leavenworth. Lines don't get any more pure or aesthetic than this, and the movement ranges from technical, to gymnastic, to purely powerful as you progress from start to finish.

Start by climbing the arete on good holds to the flat edge at the beginning of the roof. Set your feet and fire your right hand out behind you to a good sloper on the arete. From here, a mix of squeezing, heel-hooking, and scumming will bring you to the crux throws at the end. Toss for the finishing jug then make a couple more delicate moves to top out.

Location

Far end of Mad Meadows.

Protection

A few pads and at least 1 attentive spotter. The fall from the crux seems much worse than it actually is; no matter how much it feels like it you won't land on the big rock below you.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pimpsqueak
[Hide Photo] Pimpsqueak
pimpers baby
[Hide Photo] pimpers baby
Squeaking around the crux
[Hide Photo] Squeaking around the crux
Such an aesthetic line! (circa 2016)
[Hide Photo] Such an aesthetic line! (circa 2016)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

seand
Seattle, WA
  V9
[Hide Comment] Fantastic movements, all feet and hands are where they need to be. If you love heel hooks, love dangling from rock and want a flowy Leavenworth classic (possibly the best in Leavenworth; this one is not to be missed. Jan 22, 2010
Sean Patrick
Mountains, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Completely agree. I usually only boulder when I have scared myself too silly to want to rope climb, and need a day off, but this problem is of an entirely different caliber. Even for me, it merits a trip to Leavenworth all on its own. Jun 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] V9?

Either way, it's awesome. Oct 18, 2012
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=xifgLh0…

Definitely worth making it out to Leavenworth just to climb this proud boulder. Even under mildly wet conditions, the rock maintained a decent amount of friction and the beta will vary for each climber. A true classic. Oct 21, 2014
Clay Thomas
Troy, NY
  V8
[Hide Comment] Something noteworthy: depending on your beta, it is for sure possible to careen directly into the rock under this problem, butt first, like I did. Be safe out there and pad it up! Jul 8, 2018
Michael Brady
Wenatchee, WA
  V8
Becca Vincent
Seattle, WA
  V8
[Hide Comment] Pinch > sloper, and no need to cut feet at the end! youtube.com/watch?v=yCLkYnE… Nov 28, 2023
Kyle Love
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] One of the best!

youtube.com/watch?v=z8PDyD6… Jul 25, 2024
Uff Da
Greenwood, Seattle
[Hide Comment] I believe Greg Collum put up “Pipsqueak”, which later became “Pimpsqueak” after the break Apr 13, 2025