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Pimpsqueak

V8+, Boulder,  Avg: 4 from 64 votes
FA: unknown
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Leavenworth > Icicle Creek > * Bouldering in… > Mad Meadows > Pimpsqueak Boulder
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is, in my opinion, the finest boulder problem in Leavenworth. Lines don't get any more pure or aesthetic than this, and the movement ranges from technical, to gymnastic, to purely powerful as you progress from start to finish.

Start by climbing the arete on good holds to the flat edge at the beginning of the roof. Set your feet and fire your right hand out behind you to a good sloper on the arete. From here, a mix of squeezing, heel-hooking, and scumming will bring you to the crux throws at the end. Toss for the finishing jug then make a couple more delicate moves to top out.

Location

Far end of Mad Meadows.

Protection

A few pads and at least 1 attentive spotter. The fall from the crux seems much worse than it actually is; no matter how much it feels like it you won't land on the big rock below you.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pimpsqueak
[Hide Photo] Pimpsqueak
one of the best climbs i've ever done
[Hide Photo] one of the best climbs i've ever done

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

seand
Seattle, WA
  V9
[Hide Comment] Fantastic movements, all feet and hands are where they need to be. If you love heel hooks, love dangling from rock and want a flowy Leavenworth classic (possibly the best in Leavenworth; this one is not to be missed. Jan 22, 2010
Sean Ferrell
Estes Park, CO
 
[Hide Comment] Completely agree. I usually only boulder when I have scared myself too silly to want to rope climb, and need a day off, but this problem is of an entirely different caliber. Even for me, it merits a trip to Leavenworth all on its own. Jun 25, 2010
Drewsky
 
[Hide Comment] To add a little history: way, way back in the day (2000 or so?) when modern Leavenworth bouldering was in its youth, this problem was called Pipsqueak. At V6, it featured a large horn jug at the end of the roof that subsequently ripped off, transforming it into the more difficult version of today. May 21, 2012
[Hide Comment] V9?

Either way, it's awesome. Oct 18, 2012
ktaylor
Pacifica, CA
 
[Hide Comment] youtube.com/watch?v=xifgLh0…

Definitely worth making it out to Leavenworth just to climb this proud boulder. Even under mildly wet conditions, the rock maintained a decent amount of friction and the beta will vary for each climber. A true classic. Oct 21, 2014
Clay Thomas
New Jersey
  V8
[Hide Comment] Something noteworthy: depending on your beta, it is for sure possible to careen directly into the rock under this problem, butt first, like I did. Be safe out there and pad it up! Jul 8, 2018
Mike Brady
Portland, OR
Ahad A
WA
  V9