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Pimpsqueak
V8,
Boulder,
Avg: 4 from 123
votes
FA: unknown
Washington
> Central-E Casca…
> Leavenworth
> Icicle Creek
> * Bouldering in…
> Mad Meadows
> Pimpsqueak Boulder
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
This is, in my opinion, the finest boulder problem in Leavenworth. Lines don't get any more pure or aesthetic than this, and the movement ranges from technical, to gymnastic, to purely powerful as you progress from start to finish.
Start by climbing the arete on good holds to the flat edge at the beginning of the roof. Set your feet and fire your right hand out behind you to a good sloper on the arete. From here, a mix of squeezing, heel-hooking, and scumming will bring you to the crux throws at the end. Toss for the finishing jug then make a couple more delicate moves to top out.
Location
Protection
A few pads and at least 1 attentive spotter. The fall from the crux seems much worse than it actually is; no matter how much it feels like it you won't land on the big rock below you.
Seattle, WA
Mountains, CO
Either way, it's awesome. Oct 18, 2012
Definitely worth making it out to Leavenworth just to climb this proud boulder. Even under mildly wet conditions, the rock maintained a decent amount of friction and the beta will vary for each climber. A true classic. Oct 21, 2014
Troy, NY
Wenatchee, WA
Seattle, WA
Seattle, WA
youtube.com/watch?v=z8PDyD6… Jul 25, 2024
Greenwood, Seattle