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Routes in The Undeserved Area

Briskett Back T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Celibate Mallard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mig Squadron T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Never Cry Tuna T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Roy's Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tattoo S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Undeserved, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wad Cutter S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Jim Okel, Dan Perry 1981
Page Views: 1,530 total, 16/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Oct 19, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

A very good route, follows a crack system trending right through a couple of scary moves with so so pro then back left at the second break, around the corner and up to a big ledge.

Location

Flake and crack with several obvious rock intrusions in the middle of the wall just right of the corner

Protection

Cams, wires to protect the crux. Bolted anchor.

Photos

JPY.WV
Romney, WV
JPY.WV   Romney, WV
Such a beautiful line and the climbing is not that bad either. The gear on the climb for the most part is totally bomber. I won’t say that the gear going up to the traverse is bad, but I will say that is it very intricate. If it fails then you should have really good stuff right below that and the fall will just be slightly longer. In my opinion, that is what makes trad great. The intimacy with the rock and all of its little intricacies. Worth the hype. Oct 23, 2017
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
A very deserving climb. Seems well protected. There are at least three ways to do the crux traverse. May 31, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
  5.10b
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
  5.10b
PG-13 my ass. I had bomber gear the ENTIRE way up. Apr 13, 2013
Shawn Heath
Forchheim, Germany
  5.10c
Shawn Heath   Forchheim, Germany  
  5.10c
My first 5.10b/c trad. I was so pumped going into the crux, it wasn't even funny. So I placed a terrible tcu, climbed up and placed a terrible #1 camalot in the flared crack, then decided to just go for it and try not to fall. Luckily it worked out, but if it didn't, those cams probably wouldn't have held and a 30 footer was likely. Maybe I missed some bomber gear placements though... Dec 6, 2010