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Routes in The Minotaur

Labyrinth, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0-1
Megamahedral, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Suburban Blondes T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
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Type: Trad, Aid, 850 ft, 7 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Ron Olevsky and Scott Fischer FFA Patrick Kingsbury and Caleb Lichtenburger
Page Views: 2,705 total · 24/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Oct 6, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Approach

To approach, cross the river somewhere in the vicinity of Big Bend and hike up through the woods on the left side of the tower. There's a great sandy nook at the base of the route to rope up (or bivy?).

Description

This fun route is off the beaten path. Though it's never difficult, expect to have an adventure. The route climbs a chimney system to the top of the half-size tower that leans up against the Minotaur, then climbs the Minotaur proper. If carrying a pack of any kind, you'll want to haul it for the first three pitches. Legend has it that on the FA Scott fell somewhere in the chimneys and Ron caught him at the belay with his hands!!! The only topo I've seen for this route is here.

Pitch 1: Get yourself up and into the back of the chimney. Climb a tight section past a bolt to a stance on some chockstones. From here traverse right to a bolted anchor near the outside of the chimney. 5.8

Pitch 2: Up the chimney, past a right leaning offwidth corner section that is easily french-freed (this would probably go free at hard 5.10). At the top there is a single bolt above a rattly chockstone. Slinging blocks on a sandy ledge nearby is probably a better belay option. 5.9 C1

Pitch 3: Up the chimney, then a fun corner with a hand and finger crack to a great ledge (possible bivy) on top of the half-size tower. 5.8

Pitch 4: Traverse right on old bolts and rivets to the crack. Follow the crack to a good bolted belay (this may be the false belay on the topo). From here, if the leader does not pull up any slack in the lead line, the follower will have just enough to lower out without untying from the end of the rope. C1

Pitch 5: Aid and free up the crack system for a full 60 meters, past the belay noted on the topo to a comfortable spot on a ledge. Free as much as possible. 5.9 C2

Pitch 6: Up and around the right hand side of the tower to the back. 5.5

Pitch 7: The blunt arete on the right (as you are looking at the backside of the summit) probably offers the easiest option to the top. A few small cams will be useful. 5.7

Protection

2 sets of nuts, offsets useful
2 ea. cams from purple TCU to #5 Camalot
1 ea. #6 Camalot

Descent

To descend make four two-rope raps down The Megamahedral. Don't let the crack eat your ropes.

Photos

Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
anyone know if there has been a free attempt on this action? Apr 13, 2010
zachlee  
thats exactly what I was just thinking.but I havnt heard anything. Sep 18, 2010

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