Suburban Blondes Free
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Type: | Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches |
FA: | FA: Olvesky, Fisher; FFA: Kingsbury, Lichtenberger (2017) |
Page Views: | 262 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 27, 2022 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
This is the free version of the Suburban Blondes route following following the original line, minus one variation on the 3rd pitch.
P1) Chimney up to a 3 bolt belay at a stance on a small ledge. (5.8, 40? m)
P2) Offwidth through a roof and up to the massive ledge with 2 bolts at the top of the chimney. (5.10+, 40? m)
(Possible to link the first 2 pitches as described with some simul-climbing. P2 can also be broken into 2 shorter pitches if needed.)
P3) Start up the corner, then traverse right on 2 bolts (free variation) and continue up the splitter to a small stance with 3 bolts. (5.12c, 35 m)
P4) Continue up the varied corner above, making a belay at or just above the drilled pin at a small stance. (2-4 for belay) (5.11, 30 m)
P5) "Caleb's Corner" Continue up the varied corner and onto the final shelf with 3 bolts below the summit block. (5.11, 30 m)
P6) "Summit block" Find a way up the back (or the front?) with out much protection. (5.8, 10 m)
Descent: We rapped the route, but 2 ropes are needed and the last rappel might be longer than the topo implies. (We had a static and it might be closer to 80 meters....)
The 5.11, Megamahedral *might* be the better way to get down.
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