Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches
FA: FA: Olvesky, Fisher; FFA: Kingsbury, Lichtenberger (2017)
Page Views: 262 total · 25/month
Shared By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 27, 2022
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the free version of the Suburban Blondes route following following the original line, minus one variation on the 3rd pitch.

P1) Chimney up to a 3 bolt belay at a stance on a small ledge. (5.8, 40? m)

P2) Offwidth through a roof and up to the massive ledge with 2 bolts at the top of the chimney.  (5.10+, 40? m)

(Possible to link the first 2 pitches as described with some simul-climbing.  P2 can also be broken into 2 shorter pitches if needed.) 

P3) Start up the corner, then traverse right on 2 bolts (free variation) and continue up the splitter to a small stance with 3 bolts. (5.12c, 35 m)

P4) Continue up the varied corner above, making a belay at or just above the drilled pin at a small stance. (2-4 for belay) (5.11, 30 m)

P5) "Caleb's Corner" Continue up the varied corner and onto the final shelf with 3 bolts below the summit block. (5.11, 30 m)

P6) "Summit block"  Find a way up the back (or the front?) with out much protection.   (5.8, 10 m)

Descent: We rapped the route, but 2 ropes are needed and the last rappel might be longer than the topo implies.  (We had a static and it might be closer to 80 meters....)  

The 5.11, Megamahedral *might* be the better way to get down.

Location

Up the frontside of the Minotaur.

Protection

In BD sizes:

1x: 0- .1

3x: .2 - .5

2x: .75 - 2

1x: 3

2x: 4 - 5

1x: 6

Small and offset stoppers

Slings, draws, etc.

Photos

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