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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (West Face)

American Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Execution Time T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Layaway Plan TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, 4/01
Page Views: 84 total · 1/month
Shared By: Murf on Oct 5, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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An interesting route on the lonely West face of Hemingway Buttress. Start on scruffy rock, picking one of two branches of an inverted V crack. Continue up the face clipping bolts until moving left to a nice seam. From there trend left and up to the anchor.


The West face of Hemingway may be best seen/approached from the down climb of Freeway Wall. You can also approach around the left side of the east face, circling around to the back of the formation.

This route is just left of American Express, and is the only bolt line on the buttress. The picture on Pg. 326 in Joshua Tree West is slightly off, it takes the right crack of the V, while the left seems nicer. The bolt line is also too far left in the picture.

Listed as 5.11d in the JTW, the path of least resistance seems more like 5.11-.


Pro to 2 inches, 4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor (70' rap).


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