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Execution Time
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - W Face
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American Express T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Execution Time T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Layaway Plan TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02343, -116.17777 |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, April 2001 |
| Page Views: | 898 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Oct 5, 2009 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
An interesting route on the lonely West face of Hemingway Buttress. Start on scruffy rock, picking one of two branches of an inverted V crack. Continue up the face clipping bolts until moving left to a nice seam. From there trend left and up to the anchor.
Location
The West face of Hemingway may be best seen/approached from the down climb of Freeway Wall. You can also approach around the left side of the east face, circling around to the back of the formation.
This route is just left of American Express, and is the only bolt line on the buttress. The picture on Pg. 326 in Joshua Tree West is slightly off, it takes the right crack of the V, while the left seems nicer. The bolt line is also too far left in the picture.
Listed as 5.11d in the JTW, the path of least resistance seems more like 5.11-.
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