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Routes in Table Scraps Pinnacle

Aperitif S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cayucos S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Food Baby S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hobolicous S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jesus Christ Superbolter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monster Quest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oaksterdam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snaggletooth S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soul Sister Thunder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Scraps S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tuko Pamoja S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wine Style S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Aaron Rough (FFA)
Page Views: 6,579 total, 66/month
Shared By: Rough on Sep 26, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Head up the center of the wall on a juggy crack that overhangs for the 1st 10 feet. Once past the lip, trend up and left along the defined slab left of the crack. Aim for the obvious huge runnel. Bridge back and forth keeping the bolts on your left. This thing is juggy the whole way and stays moderate despite a decent increase in angle near the top.

Location

Center of the wall. Obvious huge runnel.

Protection

9 bolts + anchors

Photos

Rough
 
Rough  
 
Maureen, I am not going to have the same discussion on every rock climbing website. For those interested, feel free to read the original thread on SuperTopo:

supertopo.com/climbing/thre… Jun 19, 2016
the rock on this formation is unsafe. It is a bubbled volcanic friable veneer approx 2" in thickness over a soft sandy conglomerate. Attractive for its copious "holds, good hardware and proximity, it is not a good area to lead or for belayers. Lots of injuries here both minor and major due to holds breaking. FYI Jun 17, 2016
James Cranston
Boulder, CO
  5.6
James Cranston   Boulder, CO
  5.6
Fun. Easy. You get to go to the tippy top!! Oct 26, 2015
harmonydoc  
 
Number 3 Camalot worked great in the crack next to the chopped bolt, thanks Mark. Fun stemming! One of the bolts near the bottom was loose (2nd or 3rd I think). Aug 17, 2014
The first bolt is still missing; however a Blue 3.0 Camalot works well in the crack nearby. This climb is awesome. I loved the stemming up the large runnel. Jul 14, 2014
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Hey Jack: I haven't been out there since I heard about the hanger theft, so I doubt it's replaced. However, if you have a stick clip you will be able to reach the 2nd bolt (now 1st) easy enough. If not, I think you would be fine with your belayer spotting you bouldering style. At worst, you can always walk up the backside and scootch along the ridge to get to the anchors. It's a little sketchy but I have done it several times and it isn't that bad. Just bring a daisy chain to clip into Aperitifs anchors as you move over to Table Scraps anchors. Jan 8, 2014
Jack Hamm
Berkeley, CA
 
Jack Hamm   Berkeley, CA
 
I'm hoping to head out this weekend. Any idea if that first bolt was replaced or not? I'm a relatively new sport leader, so I don't want to push my luck. Jan 8, 2014
Nukem
Fort Lauderdale, Florida
5.8
Nukem   Fort Lauderdale, Florida
5.8
Aaron, was out here today, the first bolt was definitely chopped, annd the sawed down, makes the start scary cus that rock is definitely choss Jun 2, 2013
Rough
 
Rough  
 
That really sucks and is head shaking. I'll bring the drill and a replacement and epoxy for the rest of the bolts next time out there :(

The first bolt was placed where it was for two reasons:

#1- The rock in the first few moves is very chossy, a fall there is highly possible due to the rock and the landing is not good.

#2- The start is the crux and not everyone brings a stick clip with them.

Why can't people just leave others work alone? I pray I run into the tard who thinks pulling this crap is a good idea. Mar 11, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
Unfortunately the first bolt was missing this afternoon. I didn't examine it carefully to be certain what happened to it. I clipped the first bolt of Appertif, which wasn't very reassuring. Mar 9, 2013
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
Now that I've led this and Cayucos several times, I think they're equally difficult and 5.7. Dec 6, 2011
Patrick Sanan
Lugano, Switzerland
  5.6
Patrick Sanan   Lugano, Switzerland
  5.6
Lots of fun! Probably easier than 5.8, though, due to the wild abundance of holds. Nov 27, 2011
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
 
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
 
Probably the best route at Scraps. May 23, 2010
Floyd Hayes
  5.7
Floyd Hayes  
  5.7
Cool climb, a gem of a stem! Mar 15, 2010