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Routes in Table Scraps Pinnacle

Aperitif S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cayucos S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Food Baby S 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Hobolicous S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jesus Christ Superbolter S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monster Quest S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oaksterdam S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snaggletooth S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Soul Sister Thunder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Table Scraps S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tuko Pamoja S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wine Style S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 1,624 total, 16/month
Shared By: Rough on Sep 13, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start on the junky ramp, traverse right for a bolt then straight up the water shoot. Huge holds, fun moves. Should clean up nicely to be a good "1st time lead".

Location

Rightmost route on the main face.

Protection

5 bolts + anchor

Photos

Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
 
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
 
When I got to the anchor both bolts were loose as stated above. The left wedge anchor bolt wiggles in the hole and there are signs of the stone cracking beneath the bolt hole. This bolt should probably be replaced with a glue-in to increase the surface area and distribute the force on the soft rock. The right powers bolt I tightened down with my nut tool and got it fairly snug so the hanger doesn't spin. However, the left bolt has a quicklink on the hanger and the right bolt has a small piece of 6mm prusik cord tied directly to the hanger. If I had a knife I would have cut the 6mm cord from the anchor. IMHO it's just as easy and maybe safer at this point to top the route out and scramble down the right side as opposed to lowering or rapping.

My .02 Apr 5, 2016
AndyRx7  
FYI, both the anchor bolts are seriously loose (not just the hangers). Mar 27, 2016
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Julius: I think I understand where you are coming from. The route is actually bolted to have the same start as Soul Sister Thunder which the first few vertical moves are at least 5.5 and would be considered the crux of Food Baby. I know most people start up the ramp and immediately climb into the scoop / large runnel clipping technically the second bolt as the first bolt which avoids those moves (See pictures for an exact example of this). I don't disagree with that approach as it frees up a shared start and allows more people to climb on the wall at the same time, but I would agree it does shift the grade. I am not sure I would agree with 4th class, but it is a beginner climb, and as such is serving its designed purpose. Feb 4, 2015
Julius Beres
Boulder, CO
  5.0
Julius Beres   Boulder, CO
  5.0
Calling this 5.5 is very deceiving. It is going to mislead people into thinking that 5.5 is way easier than it is and maybe try things they shouldn't. This is 4th class or maybe 5.0 if you are feeling generous. A fun scramble. Nice to have a TR anchor for kids. Feb 3, 2015
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Phil, That is good to hear and was always the intention of the route. I literally bolted it for my kids to have fun on, and they did. Sure it is a little more grungy being the lowest angle of all of the routes, but for a 5.5 I thought, and still do think, that it was fun. Jan 16, 2012
This is a great climb for a first lead...all the bolts are easy to clip . It wanders just enough to teach a first timer that they need to watch the rope around their legs. Easy enough to learn the techniques. The kids and first time climbers with us enjoyed it too. Jan 15, 2012
Patrick Sanan
Lugano, Switzerland
  5.3
Patrick Sanan   Lugano, Switzerland
  5.3
Very easy, but my partner did her first outdoor lead here to practice! I solo'd up afterwards to clean it. All low angle with abundant holds. Loose like the rest of the crag. Nov 27, 2011
Floyd Hayes
  5.5
Floyd Hayes  
  5.5
Very crumbly and very easy, although okay for beginning climbers learning to lead. Mar 15, 2010
Rough
 
Rough  
 
Oh, I wouldn't be surprised at all to hear someone had climbed it before, as it is in a relatively obvious and short approach area. There are some other bolted anchors on the formation as well though there weren't any over either Food Baby or Soul Sister Thunder. I can say for sure that I was the 1st person to actually clean the route of loose rock as there was a ton of it.

I am sure Native Americans and Miners free solo'd all over St Helena before "we" modern rock climbers arrived. Doesn't mean it can't be developed in a more modern capacity, thus giving NorCal sport climbers another area to be able to explore. Give it a run the next time your out there, it's definitely a fun and easy route! Sep 15, 2009
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I've got a few friends that solo'd that route 5 years ago... and they thought they weren't the first to climb it. Sep 15, 2009
Rough
 
Rough  
 
About 3 hours after I bolted the anchors in, lowered down the face clearing off a ton of loose rock, TR'ing it to mark bolt placements. Rapping back down to bolt the lead bolts, pulling the rope and then leading it for the 1st time. That's how sport climbing FA's are done :) Sep 15, 2009
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
When exactly do you think you got a first ascent on this? Sep 14, 2009