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Routes in The Brain Boulder
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Brain Drain V4 6B |
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Brain, The V4 6B |
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Kung Foo Hand V6 7A |
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Lizard King V3 6A |
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Matter Over Mind V5 6C |
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Monkeys Paw V3-4 6A+ |
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O.D.B V2+ 5+ |
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S.O.B V3-4 6A+ |
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| Type: | Boulder, 14 ft (4 m) |
| GPS: | 37.4769, -80.8646 |
| FA: | Shawn McCauley & Matt Behrens |
| Page Views: | 773 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Travis Melin on Sep 14, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Shultis, Pat Goodman, Ray Weber |
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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive
Details
The cliff band is on private property and has recently changed hands, which created some potential access issues. There are a number of "No Trespassing" signs on the land.
The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."
The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.
With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
The owner of the property is alright with climbers being there. However, the "No Trespassing" signs will stay up, and are only there to "protect himself."
The landowner has also said that he is very pleased with what he's found out about the climbers and the etiquette of the area. He researched it online and found that we've always been very respectful of our privilege to climb there and that we value that privilege greatly.
With that being said, Bozoo is fair game for climbing. AS ALWAYS: BE RESPECTFUL OF THE PROPERTY AND THE AREA. NOT DOING SO COULD RESULT IN ITS PERMANENT CLOSURE.
Description
This is a very infamous Bozoo heady test piece. A bit headier if you are on the short side. Climb the low angle slab to reach "The Brain" make a long move above the braing from a painful finger-lock to the jug at the apex of the boulder. Tall technical and commiting (18'). Crux at end.
British Mike nearly left his index finger in the finger lock after his foot slipped. The blood that oozed out of that hold and down the face intimidated interested climbers for years afterward. The bone deep cut healed, and I believe he came back and sent a while later.
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