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Routes in The Brain Boulder

Brain Drain V4 6B
Brain, The V4 6B
Kung Foo Hand V6 7A
Lizard King V3 6A
Matter Over Mind V5 6C
Monkeys Paw V3-4 6A+
O.D.B V2+ 5+
S.O.B V3-4 6A+
Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Shawn McCauley 2000
Page Views: 370 total · 4/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on May 5, 2010
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

A real high-ball! Stand start in the angleing crack then move left to good edges at about 7ft up. Dynamic, or long moves leads to very cruxy slopers right at the top. The second crux right at the end makes it very very real problem.

Location

On the Brain Boulder in the project area. Just right of unknown9. Climb straight up.

Protection

Pad

Photos

Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
Sounds good, that is something I can get on then! Jan 25, 2013
its committing but not V8 maybe mentally V8 :)
V6 sounds more like it. Jan 22, 2013
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
we climbed it to within 4 inches of the top multiple times one day, but couldnt commit to the very last off balance move soo high up...so we ended up down climbing and dropping. This was in the massive humidity of august, and it felt maybe 6ish to me then, probably very different grade in good temps. Jan 20, 2013
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
Did you give this a grade? Mothena and I thought this was a project. Great line! Based on other stuff in the area I felt like this was in the V8 range, as a guess. Jan 20, 2013
I put this up in 2000. Hard SDS, to a gaston/back hand crimp in the crack leads to SLOPEY even harder sketchier top out. I called it Kung Foo Hand. Jan 18, 2013