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Routes in The Brain Boulder

Brain Drain V4 6B
Brain, The V4 6B
Kung Foo Hand V6 7A
Lizard King V3 6A
Matter Over Mind V5 6C
Monkeys Paw V3-4 6A+
O.D.B V2+ 5+
S.O.B V3-4 6A+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Jonathan Kingston, Shawn Mccauley (SDS)
Page Views: 58 total · 1/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Sep 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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Stand start on left crimp and right hand good sloping edge (looks recently broken). Fire up and right to a good horizontal, then straight up to the right corner of a protruding triangular hold, top out. SDS goes at V5/6.


Far right on the backside of the Brain boulder. Just past the Ape Rage boulder




Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
You are probably right, but the stand start hold is the one behind the leaves, so it is pretty obscured in this pic. It is a pretty long lock off from a slopey sidepull/gaston to the visible edge up above the leaves now. Used to be a good edge on a blockey thing in my memory. Jan 25, 2013
The stand start was a right facing blocky hold slightly above head height. photo you guys have is the way it was back in the late 90s
The SDS was maybe V5/6 started on crimps, high left foot, you rock up to shallow pocket with left hand pop to the broken hold in question with right hand, which where the stand start begins. Jan 22, 2013
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
I take it the SDS is harder than the V3/4 stand start? I will check this out next time over there. Also, I remember that hold being not broken in 2003/4 and the problem being about V2 as a Stand start... not sure if it we are talking about the same hold. Jan 20, 2013
Jonathan Kingston FA'd the stand up version in 1997, I added a sit start in 1999 and called it Monkey's Paw. That obvious hold that looks recently broken, broke in like 1997. Jan 18, 2013