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Routes in Condor Corner

Condor Corner T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Fun One T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Got You T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joker, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Just Missed the Fun T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pete's Nemesis T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Salt Peter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shooting Star TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 85 total, 1/month
Shared By: Paul Jones on Aug 31, 2009
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Main face left of Condor Corner. Start low and left on face holds, then move into shallow seam on the right. Continue to top on the right side of the wall without using holds on Condor Corner. At the top, continue straight through overhanging rock for 11d, traverse left and use both cracks for 11a.

Protection

Toprope setup - 2 trees 1 nut. Gear on route is there but sparse - the top crux is well protected.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11c R
Tradiban  
  5.11c R
Couple of versions here:

-Regular Route: Use good holds on right but nothing on the right side of the chimney and you get a nice 10c.

-Direct: Ignore all holds on the right arete and finish on left upper crack and you get a 11c.

-Double Direct: Go straight up face without right arete holds AND don't use the jug at the start of the left upper crack to go straight up the overhang to finish and it goes 12a.

Four stars if it wasn't so contrived. Gear is all micros in shallow seams, nothing bomber with a run out to the top. Something to hang on but holding a whipper is questionable. I went for the double direct pumped out and bailed left on the crack. I'll leave leading double direct for future generations :) Apr 27, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11c R
Tradiban  
  5.11c R
Sounds perfect.

It was hell to find even with the GPS coordinates. Heinous approach! Apr 19, 2010
Alex A
 
Alex A  
 
FA Pete Cleveland, of 5.11a var, FA direct finish 11d Alex Andrews,
to my Knowledge it has not been lead, it would be R/X, crux is safe,
some powerful moves at the crux,
worth the effort to find the crag, will not be easy to find, Apr 19, 2010
Paul Jones
Madison, WI
 
Paul Jones   Madison, WI
 
not sure - I would assume so, as there is some gear. Dave Groth or Rich Bechler might know Sep 4, 2009
Tradiban
  5.11c R
Tradiban  
  5.11c R
Anyone ever lead this Paul? Sep 2, 2009