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Routes in Garfield Crag

Big One, The T WI5 M2
Bilbo's Tunnel T WI3+
Decsent Route T WI4
Leaving the Shire T WI4
Mad Dog (Top roped) T WI4-5 M3
Post Hole Alphonso T WI4
Sick Pup T WI5-
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Bradley White , Jim Shimberg, 1987
Page Views: 1,019 total · 10/month
Shared By: bradley white on Aug 13, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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two starts right or left ramp of mixed climbing to belay under narrow curtain pillar. Climb pillar (WI4+) move right to gear placement, move left up runnel similar to Repentance second pitch and belay at notch (4+). Climb ramp left to ledge and escape off climb or do the crux wall of thin hard technical moves to the highest exit to this climb.


Biggest ice flow area in west central side of crag. Many variations exist to the right and the left after the pillar of second pitch.


A couple of ice screws and tri-cams and stoppers. The gear is good but it's time consuming placing it. Climb depends on weather conditions. It's a hit or miss area. I waited three years for it to be in with enough ice to climb it. Rappel down Descent Route with at least one 60m rope.



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