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Routes in The Ravens

Block Party S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Capillary Attraction S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
El Curvo S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Epic Commander T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hails Bails T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Hotshot S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If You Bolt It They Will Come S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Layer Cake S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Left Ventricle S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Lemmon Meringue S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Streaks T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Luke Slingwalker T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
MoMo Buttress S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On A Wing And A Prayer S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Organized Labor S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pooter Chainsaw Massacre S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Rantin' & Raven S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Raven Maniac S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Ventricle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shenanigans S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Stint S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swing Set S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: Jim Scott, Dean Brault
Page Views: 2,804 total, 28/month
Shared By: Luke Bertelsen on Aug 9, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

This one is a GEM. 130ft. that involves crystal pulling (big and small), good sequencing, some spicy bolt spacing, and tops it off with stemming (a little bit at the beginning, and some with great exposure at the end). A must do if you've made your way down to the Ravens.

Location

Located on the downhill side of Raven C as seen in the topos of STL II. Starts by stemming into the chimney and follows the bolt line closest to that chimney.

Protection

17 bolts to chain anchors. I would describe this as "adventure" sport climbing as some of the bolt spacing is not what you might be used to if you're hitting up Munchkinland or even The Orifice over at The Fortress.

It takes two ropes to get to the ground if you're using a 60M. Not sure if a 70M would do it either.

Photos

If your belayer climbs up the chimney you can reach the ledge lowering off with a 70M rope. Be sure and tie a knot in the end of the rope. 80 meter probably works but I haven't tried it. Aug 12, 2017
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.10+
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
  5.10+
One of the best single pitches of climbing I've done anywhere and certainly my vote for the best 5.10 on Lemmon. Bring your 70. Aug 9, 2017
kletterlisa  
 
What a wonderful climb! Bring enough gear, there are 17 bolts (+2 for the anchors) on this climb. Aug 30, 2016
Jimbo  
Did this with a 70 meter rope a few days ago. You can lower into the chimney above the big chockstone and hit terra firma. The belayer needs to be directly under the 1st bolt and paying attention to the end of the rope as there is only a foot or two to spare. We also cleaned all the draws but the last one lowering off the chains with a 70. Sep 21, 2009
Jimbo  
The stemming at the top and the bottom are all part of the route. You did it like you should. Good on ya.

I wonder if you could lower straight down into the upper part of the chimney with a 70 meter??? Aug 20, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
About a third of the way up if you look to the left you can see the rap rings at the top of the first pitch of "El Cuervo" on Raven D that you need to rap to first..

Stellar route, I started wondering whether the stemming at the end was off route but am stoked it's not..

Best to wait until midmorning for shade Aug 19, 2009
With a 60M rope you can lower down to the anchors on El Cuervo which is on the other tower, clip in straight pull your rope, thread, retie, then lower the rest of the way to the ground. It is a bit of a hassle but it is worth it. Aug 10, 2009