Avg: 2.6 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||Geoff Parker, Gary Axen 1970|
|Page Views:||1,323 total · 12/month|
|Shared By:||Charles Vernon on Aug 26, 2011|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
I'll do this climb again, and I was tempted to give it 3 stars. Also, it stays nice and cool even on the hottest days in Tucson.
Pitch one (crux) chimneys up past the overlaps, then angles over left (west) to a group of 3 chockstones for a somewhat enervating belay. There is some ancient webbing here and some manky cams available, but slinging one of the big stones and/or wedging yourself securely is probably the best option. This pitch has very little pro.
Pitch two is easy, and spectacular. Climb up and slightly left (facing Raven C), avoiding a chossy corner and reaching better rock on the outside edge of the chimney (this is about 20-30 ft right of "If you bolt it they will come"). Continue past occasional gear placements until the chimney ends, then hop onto Raven C and climb an easy ramp to a tree belay. This is a long pitch.
From the tree, continue up the groove (one tricky move) to the summit.
(Note: SQL II is a bit ambiguous about the location of P2, but Steiger's guide clarifies that it exits the chimney on the west side of the Ravens. Based on what we did, this seems correct.)
You could start any number of places; we started in the middle of the chimney under some diagonal striations or overlaps (perhaps these are the "lightning streaks"?). The first belay consists of 3 chockstones that are up and left (as you face Raven C) from here.
To descend, rappel west as for Luke Slingwalker. We descended the east side and I do NOT recommend this.