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El Curvo

5.10+, Sport, 130 ft,  Avg: 3.7 from 36 votes
FA: Jim Scott, Dean Brault
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 8 - Summit Crags > Ravens
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

This one is a GEM. 130ft. that involves crystal pulling (big and small), good sequencing, some spicy bolt spacing, and tops it off with stemming (a little bit at the beginning, and some with great exposure at the end). A must do if you've made your way down to the Ravens.

Location

Located on the downhill side of Raven C as seen in the topos of STL II. Starts by stemming into the chimney and follows the bolt line closest to that chimney.

Protection

17 bolts to chain anchors. I would describe this as "adventure" sport climbing as some of the bolt spacing is not what you might be used to if you're hitting up Munchkinland or even The Orifice over at The Fortress.

It takes two ropes to get to the ground if you're using a 60M. Not sure if a 70M would do it either.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Remy Franklin onsighting El Curvo, photo by Eli Medvescek
[Hide Photo] Remy Franklin onsighting El Curvo, photo by Eli Medvescek
Amazing chimney move! Photo: Eli Medvescek
[Hide Photo] Amazing chimney move! Photo: Eli Medvescek
Jon Mavko stemming at the top of El Curvo.  Lots of air as you look between your legs at the top.
[Hide Photo] Jon Mavko stemming at the top of El Curvo. Lots of air as you look between your legs at the top.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] With a 60M rope you can lower down to the anchors on El Cuervo which is on the other tower, clip in straight pull your rope, thread, retie, then lower the rest of the way to the ground. It is a bit of a hassle but it is worth it. Aug 10, 2009
Christian Roda o Back
Casa do Cacete
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] About a third of the way up if you look to the left you can see the rap rings at the top of the first pitch of "El Cuervo" on Raven D that you need to rap to first..

Stellar route, I started wondering whether the stemming at the end was off route but am stoked it's not..

Best to wait until midmorning for shade Aug 19, 2009
[Hide Comment] The stemming at the top and the bottom are all part of the route. You did it like you should. Good on ya.

I wonder if you could lower straight down into the upper part of the chimney with a 70 meter??? Aug 20, 2009
[Hide Comment] Did this with a 70 meter rope a few days ago. You can lower into the chimney above the big chockstone and hit terra firma. The belayer needs to be directly under the 1st bolt and paying attention to the end of the rope as there is only a foot or two to spare. We also cleaned all the draws but the last one lowering off the chains with a 70. Sep 21, 2009
[Hide Comment] What a wonderful climb! Bring enough gear, there are 17 bolts (+2 for the anchors) on this climb. Aug 30, 2016
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] One of the best single pitches of climbing I've done anywhere and certainly my vote for the best 5.10 on Lemmon. Bring your 70. Aug 9, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] If your belayer climbs up the chimney you can reach the ledge lowering off with a 70M rope. Be sure and tie a knot in the end of the rope. 80 meter probably works but I haven't tried it. Aug 12, 2017