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Routes in Hungover Wall - Right Side

Boilermaker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conscious Projection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Doug's Dilemma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gravitational Humiliation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jim Beam Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Particle Acceleration S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pressure Drop S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ripples in Time TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Segments in Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight, No Chaser T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suspended Animation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: (TR) Doug Odenthal & Joe Sheehy, 1988, FL: Gary Henning, 1997
Page Views: 152 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 4, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Clip the poorly located first bolt standing on the ledge and then move up passing horizontals to a high 2nd bolt while looking at a fall back onto the ledge. Higher interesting balance moves up sloping edges and incut plates culminate in a cruxy topout as you palm the rounded top. Good movement on this despite it being so short.

A slightly harder and better protected variation to this is to climb Jim Beam Arete to it's third bolt and then cut right on jugs to join this route at it's 3rd bolt (5 total).

Location

Just around and right from Jim Beam Arete starting off a ledge.

Protection

4 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Until the 1st bolt on this is moved consider this "R" rated as you'll hit the starting ledge if you come off before the 2nd bolt. Jul 6, 2009
Bradley Gorsline
Pasadena, California
  5.10c
Bradley Gorsline   Pasadena, California
  5.10c
Getting to the second bolt isn't so bad since you can pretty much walk up to it on a ramp. It is bolted in a silly manner but not really all that unsafe. Sep 25, 2016

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