Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Pat Brennan
Page Views: 1,914 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 17, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Description

Stem off a boulder to start (direct is 5.10) and climb the offset crack taking advantage of the plentiful face holds. About three-quarters of the way up interesting moves past a bulge gain a ledge and a straightforward finger/hand crack leads to the anchors.

Location

The obvious crack on the right end of the wall.

Protection

Gear to 3 inches, ring anchors

Photos

Listed as trad but i think most people just clip the bolts for Jim Beam while they climb this. Jul 3, 2017
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
no, don't lead this crack by clipping the Jim Beam Arete's bolts, and don't suggest this unless you've led it that way yourself. one could, but beware of the potential dangers. JBA's 2nd and 3rd bolts are more than a full wingspan right of the crack, and would force one out of the crack onto pumpy steep face harder than the crack's 5.8 rating. if one peels off just prior to traversing out to clip that 3rd bolt, the resulting big fall with bad swing could deck the leader against rock features right of the start. a protruding big horn above the 3rd clip and before the 4th would also cause rope issues

plenty of people lead this crack with cams for its own fun, or as warm-up for the other harder crack lines like More Punk Than Funk and Boilermaker Jul 31, 2018
David Aldama
Running Springs, CA
  5.8
David Aldama   Running Springs, CA
  5.8
If leading by just clipping the Jim Beam Arete bolts, which is not too bad if already using the numerous face holds left and right of the crack, a .5 BD can be placed in the final crack leading to the anchor to avoid a bad fall onto the bulge. Jul 31, 2018