Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Troy Mayr and Dave Robinson, 1988
Page Views: 226 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

Boulder up to a high first bolt (1/2") where you'll quickly confront the crux which can be done a couple of ways depending upon your height and/or flexibility. Taller climbers may opt to deadpoint for the sloping horizontal whereas shorter climbers will need to employ a crafty heel hook/crimp combo to succeed.

Past the crux you'll find the climbing to be rewarding as you stem and lieback up past horizontals, some better than others, to a reachy move past the fourth bolt and another crux (5.11) past the 5th bolt. The last moves are easier and lead to anchors on a small ledge.

This is a climb you'll either love or hate as it comes down to sticking the lower crux, although it's possible to get all the way to the top and pitch off the upper crux.

Protection

6 bolts, open shuts

Photos

Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11d
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11d
The crux is kinda funky. If you are 5'10" or over you'll think it isn't too bad, 5'8" and under you'll be thinking this is hard for 5.11d. Either way, commit to the move and you'll find the rest of the climbing OK. The move past the 2nd to last bolt will make you think, but it is probably no harder than 11c. Jun 8, 2007
David Aldama
Running Springs, CA
 
David Aldama   Running Springs, CA
 
I can imagine this route might be unenjoyable to shorter climbers, but I find it to be one of the best climbs at the crag. Dec 12, 2017