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Routes in Hungover Wall - Right Side

Boilermaker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conscious Projection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Doug's Dilemma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gravitational Humiliation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jim Beam Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Particle Acceleration S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pressure Drop S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ripples in Time TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Segments in Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight, No Chaser T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suspended Animation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Troy Mayr and Dave Robinson, 1988
Page Views: 167 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 13, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Boulder up to a high first bolt (1/2") where you'll quickly confront the crux which can be done a couple of ways depending upon your height and/or flexibility. Taller climbers may opt to deadpoint for the sloping horizontal whereas shorter climbers will need to employ a crafty heel hook/crimp combo to succeed.

Past the crux you'll find the climbing to be rewarding as you stem and lieback up past horizontals, some better than others, to a reachy move past the fourth bolt and another crux (5.11) past the 5th bolt. The last moves are easier and lead to anchors on a small ledge.

This is a climb you'll either love or hate as it comes down to sticking the lower crux, although it's possible to get all the way to the top and pitch off the upper crux.

Location

Between Suspended Animation and Segments in Space.

Protection

6 bolts, open shuts

Photos

David Aldama
Running Springs, CA
 
David Aldama   Running Springs, CA
 
I can imagine this route might be unenjoyable to shorter climbers, but I find it to be one of the best climbs at the crag. Dec 12, 2017
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
There are no chipped holds on this route, which ones do you have in mind? Jul 14, 2009
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
  5.11d
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
  5.11d
The crux is kinda funky. If you are 5'10" or over you'll think it isn't too bad, 5'8" and under you'll be thinking this is hard for 5.11d. Either way, commit to the move and you'll find the rest of the climbing OK. The move past the 2nd to last bolt will make you think, but it is probably no harder than 11c. Jun 8, 2007

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