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Routes in Hungover Wall - Right Side

Boilermaker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Conscious Projection S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Doug's Dilemma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Easy Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gravitational Humiliation S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jim Beam Arete S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Particle Acceleration S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pressure Drop S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Ripples in Time TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Segments in Space S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Straight, No Chaser T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Suspended Animation S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Under Pressure S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: (TR) Steve DiMarino, 1998 (?), FL: Brian Cullen, June 2002
Page Views: 664 total, 5/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Just right of Gravitational Humiliation and left of Boilermaker is this difficult route, with distinctive gold-colored hangers, that is one of only two 5.13 routes on the wall.

A bouldery start gains a high first bolt above which interesting and somewhat sustained climbing (5.11) past three more bolts reach the 5th and final bolt. Above, the difficulty increases significantly as you encounter the bouldery crux which guards the topout to the belay ledge.

Originally done in the 1980's as a 5.11 toprope problem that ended below the top at an apparently "blank" section of rock, this was later done on TR with all of the moves being done (5.13c ?) but not linked. Sometime later an unknown individual enhanced holds at the top making this just a bit easier; for the record the first lead was not done by the mystery chipper. Sadly, despite the difficulty of this route, this could have been a testpiece were it left unaltered.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor/rap

Photos

Steve DiMarino
Los Alamos, NM
Steve DiMarino   Los Alamos, NM
Was this bolted in 2002? I believe I climbed this in the late 1990's--like 1998--on a visit to California. Mar 18, 2011