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Routes in Shady Lane

Chronic Relief S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eso No Se Hace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Range Chook T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 824 total, 8/month
Shared By: sqwirll on May 13, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

I'd give this route 4 stars if were just a little longer. This route starts out pulling a steep section on jugs. Then the crack goes from hands to fingers, with a thin crux at the top.

We cleaned this route in January and it has held up well so far. It dries fairly quickly after rain.

Location

Go to the far left (West)end of Shady Lane and locate the obvious crack. Walk off the left side of the cliff.

Protection

Gear to 3", with mainly finger sized pro.. One fixed pin protects the crux move. Belay off trees at the top.

Photos

Still clean! We climbed this because we thought it was the first pitch of Davis-Holland (I know...). I was expecting 5.9! Oops! Jun 13, 2011
Mark Straub
Berkeley, CA
 
Mark Straub   Berkeley, CA
 
Good route, but hard crux right at the top! I was expecting a 5.10b tips lock, and instead there was nothing but a flaring pocket. All the other moves are cruiser, and it protects great. Oct 23, 2010
Todd Miller   MT
Excellent route. It protects very well. Great route for those wanting to break into 5.10 climbing and it can also be easily toproped. May 19, 2009