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Routes in Shady Lane

Chronic Relief S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eso No Se Hace T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Free Range Chook T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: R. Dedinas, M. Dedinas, D. Tower
Page Views: 877 total, 8/month
Shared By: Todd Miller on Jun 15, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch Details

Description

Power up on jugs to the first bolt. A thin crimp and creative footwork will get you through the crux at the second bolt. Above, enjoy the stellar finger crack.

Mantle onto the ledge at the end of the finger crack then join Chronic Relief, clipping the last 2 bolts of that route to the chains.

Location

This route is easily identified by the zigzagging finger crack and the 2 bolts at the start. Rappel from the chains on Chronic Relief.

Protection

4 bolts (2 at the start and 2 on the finish of Chronic Relief) plus gear. Small cams and wires protect the finger crack. One #2 Camalot is nice to have to protect the mantle move at the top of the crack, but otherwise nothing bigger than .5" is needed.

For those not up for leading it, it is easy to lead Chronic Relief and toprope this route using a cam or two as a directional.
Todd Miller
MT
 
Todd Miller   MT
 
This route was recleaned in May 2009. As the title implies, Shady Lane is, well, shady. Consider bringing a small brush (grill brush, etc.) along and scrubbing off any moss that you may see creeping up. Jun 15, 2009