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Routes in Temple Crag

Barefoot Bynum T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dark Star T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Eclipsed Arete T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Mendenhall Couloir T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Moon Goddess Arete T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Planaria T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sun Ribbon Arete T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Temple, Galey, Sill Traverse T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Venusian Blind T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2500 ft, 11 pitches, Grade V
FA: Gordon Wiltsie and Jay Jensen, September 1977
Page Views: 2,797 total, 27/month
Shared By: Bruce Bindner on May 4, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

In 1997, Gordon Wiltsie and Jay Jensen established Planaria, using aid to ascend a shallow, right-facing dihedral up to a right-trending roof, thence up into the large shallow dihedral that comprises the bulk of the route.

Higher, after a 60-foot fall out of the left side, Gorden and Jay went up the right side of the flatworm flake that gives the route its name.

The pair ended their fine ascent at the top of the Lower Buttress where the route joins with Dark Star and Barefoot Bynum.

Partly because of the route's reputation, and partly because freeing the first two pitches looked unlikely at best, Planaria went unrepeated for over 20 years.

The free variation established by Bob Harrington and Bruce Bindner in 1998 starts up a 5.9 crack to the right of the aid route, then works up the face past a pin and two bolts to rejoin the Wiltsie-Jensen line out to the right of the end of the right-trending aid roof.

During the all-free ascent, the left side of the flatworm flake was climbed free in the 5.10 range, the crux being 4.5" to 5.5" offwidth.

Harrington and Bindner then continued to the summit of Temple Crag, rating the entire route to the summit a Grade V.

Location

From Third Lake, cross the outlet stream over fallen logs at the east end of Third Lake, and follow a use trail up onto the moraine. This peters out after about 100 yards, and the rest of the way is on talus and scree. Head more or less directly south, then aim for the face below the shallow dihedral that comprises this route, which is located to the right of Barefoot Bynum and Dark Star.

Protection

Rack:
2 KBs, 2 LAs
Stoppers and some brass
Pink, red, and brown tricams
cams from blue Alien to #4.5 Camelot
Alien Hybrids also useful.

A 55m - 60m rope is useful on some of the longer pitches. See topo.

Photos

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