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Routes in 18 - Generator Station

Conductor Crack TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cool Wheel (aka The Gauntlet) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Generator Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: TR, 45 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 2,286 total · 21/month
Shared By: Ian G. on May 2, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15 Details

Description [Edit]

This is the yin to Generator Crack's yang. Tight and sometimes painful fingerlocks with super bad feet is what this climb is all about. It's pretty much a boulder problem pulling the bulge and then a perfect hands 5.7 crack to the top. Fun!

Location [Edit]

Right across the street from the generator station!

Protection [Edit]

Toprope. I have belayed someone leading it, so it is possible...Bring long slings for the anchor. You can use the trees about 15 feet from the lip of the boulder. There is a bolt you can use as a directional. You also might want some nuts and cams up to .75.

Photos

Tommy L-D  
 
There is now a second, beefy (ASCA?) bolt on top. Oct 4, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
Will S   Joshua Tree
This is basically a one-move wonder with a fingery crux pull in the crack. Felt hard for the rating, but it is literally a single hard move followed by low 5th class hiking. Crux will protect perfectly with a small cam if you chose to lead. Oct 9, 2011
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
Felt harder than Butterballs 11c. 11d? There is no move on Bb that is harder than the 1st 20 feet of this climb. Bb is just long. This climb is awkward. Mar 25, 2013
Jake Ramsey
Yosemite, CA
Jake Ramsey   Yosemite, CA
Anchor is now two 3/8” stainless steel 5 peice bolts with beefy Fixie hangers. Apr 2, 2018

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