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Routes in 18 - Generator Station

Conductor Crack TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Cool Wheel (aka The Gauntlet) T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Generator Crack T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 14,141 total, 109/month
Shared By: Aaron S on Apr 25, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

How is this route not on here yet? This is the classic "Let's go flail on an off width since we're in Yosemite" climb. There is literally no approach and it is super easy to TR. So if you want to try out a 5.10 ow in Yosemite, throw on a toprope and commence struggling. Most people I’ve talked to seem to think the bottom section is the crux but I don’t think it’s too bad if you have some basic leavitation technique. Transitioning into the squeeze up higher however, is a grunt any way I know to do it.

Location

On the south side of the 140, a few miles west of the junction with the 120. Look for the old generator station.

Protection

Easy TR off of a couple bolts. Leading it would require a big bro or two as most of it is too big for cams.
Matt Henry  
 
Great on a wet/drizzly day as the climb is overhung and shelters you from the weather. Plus you'll generate plenty of body heat grunting up it. Apr 18, 2013
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.10c
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.10c
Bottom section goes well with hand stacks and a calf jam. Once you're high enough to shove a leg in, you can do a double-fisted hand stack for a couple of moves before climbing all the way inside! If you have thoughtful footwork you can take your time and rest throughout this part (e.g. once your thigh is inside you can tuck the foot back outside the crack for a bomber knee jam rest).

I've found the best way around the projecting flake is to tunnel inside. I didn't believe I could fit, and I still have trouble unsticking myself at times, but if you fight the urge to panic you can eventually wriggle your way up into the squeeze chimney.

So far as I've played around I think the easiest way to climb this is by switching sides a couple of times. It's not too hard to turn around at the right spots. I start with my right leg so that I can be right-side in on the lower chicken-winging (the edge you grab seems better this way). Halfway up the chicken-winging/arm-barring fun I rotate left-side in.

BTW, what do people think of the projecting fin 2/3 up? It sounded pretty hollow to me and I could feel it vibrate. Perhaps the belayer should choose a strategic position below? Apr 5, 2011
Aaron S
 
Aaron S  
 
"The trick at the beginning seems to be to use the tree to bypass the narrower part of the crack "

Wha??? May 27, 2008
This climb left me with a ton of scratches on practically every major extension of my body. In spite of this I quite enjoyed conquering it the second time around. The trick at the beginning seems to be to use the tree to bypass the narrower part of the crack at the very bottom of the run. From there I stacked my feet, pushed up the crack, and locked my shoulder and arm and repeated. It gets way easier after having gone 80% of the way. You simply contort your body into the position a cheerleader would make when she (or he) would represent the letter "H"and scoot up the crack.

Bottom line: Find some good climbing clothes for this because it left me with a bunch of scabs. Aug 23, 2007
Nate Furman
Salt Lake City, Utah
Nate Furman   Salt Lake City, Utah
This thing is so burly! I got my foot stuck doing a heel/tow near the top and couldn't get it out. I tried wrenching it free by lifting my heel, which just made the pain worse. Ultimately I untied my shoe and was able to get my foot out.

I wanna go back... Aug 3, 2007
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Generator Crack ate my car keys! Yes, once while setting up a TR they fell out of my pocket at the worst possible moment, jangling down into the crack about 20 feet. After peering down for about 10 seconds I realized they were irretrievable. By an amazing coincidence, I had another set of keys in my pack so disaster was avoided. Still, the inside of the crack probably holds all sorts of treasures. May 1, 2007
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
This thing is obscene! You have to love it. If Generator Crack were a person, you ask? I'm thinking 'Hacksaw' Jim Duggan. Maybe the Kathy Bates character from 'Misery'. Or the beast from 'The Host'.

Five stars. May 1, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
THE crack to train for valley OW and squeeze. Hits every bad size as it gradually widens from off fists/hand stacks. Potentially humiliating, always entertaining, and a serious full body workout. Hand stacks, foot stacks, arm bars, chicken wings, knee locks, heel toes...you get a chance to use everything on this one. Nice hang spot at the base right next to the river. Take care at the horn/flake structure up high on the left, it flexes a bit and would be bad news for the belayer if it pulls. Apr 26, 2007