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Routes in The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)

Alabama Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alabama Crack Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Harvey Carter? '50s?
Page Views: 1,435 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Apr 7, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This comment is from Stewart Green from the Nose page: "Around the corner to the left [of the Nose] is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from the gully below the crack, climb up and right past a couple old fixed Harvey pitons (5.9) to the belay shelf. Jam the crack 50 feet to a [ledge] with a 2-bolt rappel anchor that Brian Shelton and I put in a year ago."

I climbed this today by climbing up to the Nose roof, clipping a blue sling fixed to a piton and wired nut underneath the roof, then traversing left under a nice flake to the large ledge on the corner of the formation and beneath the Alabama. I belayed here off a fixed piton, and a couple cams (1", 1/2") to avoid rope drag for the upper section.

There are some scary loose blocks above the 2-bolt anchor which could seriously injure your belayer or possibly damage the rope if they were dislodged. Some people might consider only climbing this to the 2-bolt anchor for this reason.

I did not see any pins protecting a left start, as mentioned by Stewart.

Location

This is on the West Face of the Nose, right off the Mid-Columbine Trail. You can't miss it.

Rappel.

Protection

Standard rack to a #4 Camalot. QDs for a few pins along the way.

Photos

Andrew Ishimaru
Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Andrew Ishimaru   Colorado Springs, Colorado
 
Did the direct start through the lower roof. Fun, minus avoiding the one very large loose feeling block. Agree with 5.10+... a condensed, V4 boulder problem followed by the 5.9ish crack. May 6, 2014
Kyle Rodman
  5.9
Kyle Rodman  
  5.9
The left start from the gully is pretty weird and loose, but there are four or five pitons of decent quality to protect it. Only can really see most of them after you start heading up what looks to be the natural line. It doesn't seem to be as loose as the direct start through the blocky roof though and probably a touch easier. Jun 28, 2013
Logan Berndt
Colorado Springs
  5.9
Logan Berndt   Colorado Springs
  5.9
Beautiful line! Great hands/fists with excellent pro! Oct 27, 2011
erik rieger
Ridgway, CO
erik rieger   Ridgway, CO
This a great route. Start on the easy arete between this and The Nose then head up to the slab under the Nose and place a 0.4 Camalot or similar for the undercling traverse (the first lower crack, use a double length runner or two to avoid drag), head left, clip a piton and pull a small roof to gain ledge with a big fixed bong, head up the awesome handcrack and tight hands roof to the chain anchors.

Watch out for rope drag, loose rock, and avoid the old piton under the upper roof, it is almost possible to remove it by hand. Doing the direct line through the lower rotten roof is loose 10+ and the right trending traverse that starts far left looks interesting, though, I haven't done it. Take some long runners and a single rack from 0.4-3 Camalot. Jun 17, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
The second half of this climb is fun hand and fist jams. However, the lower roof (apparently off-route but the most direct line) is very loose and sketchy. I probably wouldn't do it again simply to gain the last 30' of climbing. Jul 16, 2009