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Routes in The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress)

Alabama Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Alabama Crack Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nose, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Harvey T Carter, 50s FFA: Doug Snively & Stewart Green, '71?
Page Views: 2,027 total, 17/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on May 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is the obvious crack up to and through the large roof on The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress).

It starts out easy and crumbly, but then the rock gets really good. Fingers and thin hands lead to pretty good feet getting out towards the lip of the roof, then get ready for steep, painful hand jams through the roof. There were a couple fixed nuts above the roof, which I equipped with a cordelette and rap rings (maybe 7 years ago), or you can continue up the corner and cracks above to the top of the pillar. If just going up to the fixed anchor, it's about 80 feet. I guess maybe 180 feet to the top. I assume it would be bad rope drag to do it all in one pitch.

The other cracks on the pillar look ok too, but I've never climbed 'em. The rating given is somewhat old school - others might find it more like 10a/b (?).

Location

10-15 minutes up and toward the west on the Mid-Columbine Trail. The base of the buttress is basically right on the trail, and The Nose is the obvious large roof directly above you.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed wires with rap rings above the roof. I'm not sure what's on top of the pillar for rappelling. It seems like there would be something up there, but it may be just a walk-off. If I go back, I'll go to the top, and update the description.

Photos

Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
All the hardest moves revolve around yanking on chossy blocks. Watch your rope on the mantel/hump/grovel around the roof; easy for said block to snag your rope. Dec 10, 2016
Michael Hasson
Sausalito, CA
  5.10a
Michael Hasson   Sausalito, CA
  5.10a
The first 50 feet of this is some of the chossiest climbing I've ever done. Like, if you knock on something too hard to see if it's solid, you might knock it onto your belayer. It's really easy, but if a hold breaks, it's really going to suck. That said, the roof was surprisingly fun. Really cool moves to get around it. This protects very nicely with a 0.5/0.75. Sep 5, 2016
Newton
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
Newton   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a
I broke a big hold under the roof yesterday and went for a ride (whee!). Getting to a good roof jam is slightly more difficult now. There's a pretty similar but smaller hold still there, so the nature of the climb wasn't affected too much. Jun 6, 2012
Logan Berndt
Colorado Springs
  5.10a
Logan Berndt   Colorado Springs
  5.10a
Awesome climb on some rotten rock, but once you gain the crack, it is awesome! Great line!! Super pumpy with great exposure! Sep 29, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10-
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10-
I did the second pitch of this climb the past summer and found the dihedral second pitch to be pretty hard with rattly fingers and no feet. Probably 10- as well.

This climb really is quite unique for the area, and all budding trad climbers should have to do it. Apr 10, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
  5.10-
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
  5.10-
This is a really sweet route! If the rock quality were better this would be classic. Great gear moving out over the exposed roof with bomber hand jams and ledges! If you are confident at all on 5.9 give this route a shot because the gear is as good as it gets and you have 25 feet of air beneath you to hit. May 28, 2009
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I climbed this again last night. The roof was definitely more strenuous than I remember it. The cordalette anchor above the roof (which I installed the last time I climbed it) is still in good condition. We did climb the upper pitch, which is good, and in my opinion easier, but it has it's fill of questionable rock, so be careful. The rappel from the top is a couple slings on a bolder/chockstone. We left a couple old biners up there, and rappelled to the west with one 70m rope. Apr 20, 2009
kristoff
Colorado Springs
kristoff   Colorado Springs
Thanks Stewart and Bosier. Jul 1, 2008
Julian Smith
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10-
Julian Smith   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10-
Thanks Bo and Stewart for posting the route and sharing the information; this is such a great climb. I feel like the crux is in the dihedral above the roof (i.e. 2nd pitch). Anyway, good to see that other folks may think the route's 5.9+ rating is a pretty honest gradeĀ…;-) May 15, 2008
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Thanks for the info and corrections, Stewart! I'll update the descriptions above. May 14, 2008
This is actually called "The Nose" (Same name as the formation). Harvey Carter did the first ascent of it in the 1950s on aid. Doug Snively and I did the first free ascent of it in 1971. The old pin welded in the crack was there then. We climbed all the way to the top of the buttress, but most folks lower from the pin now. Around the corner to the left is "Alabama Crack." There are two starts to it. Climb up and left from the slab below the Nose roof to a belay shelf below Alabama Crack or from the gully below the crack, climb up and right past a couple old fixed Harvey pitons (5.9) to the belay shelf. Jam the crack 50 feet to a left with a 2-bolt rappel anchor that Brian Shelton and I put in a year ago. May 12, 2008