Type: Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FA: Harvey T Carter, 50s FFA: Doug Snively & Stewart Green, '71?
Page Views: 2,234 total · 16/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on May 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is the obvious crack up to and through the large roof on The Nose (aka Mid-Columbine Buttress).

It starts out easy and crumbly, but then the rock gets really good. Fingers and thin hands lead to pretty good feet getting out towards the lip of the roof, then get ready for steep, painful hand jams through the roof. There were a couple fixed nuts above the roof, which I equipped with a cordelette and rap rings (maybe 7 years ago), or you can continue up the corner and cracks above to the top of the pillar. If just going up to the fixed anchor, it's about 80 feet. I guess maybe 180 feet to the top. I assume it would be bad rope drag to do it all in one pitch.

The other cracks on the pillar look ok too, but I've never climbed 'em. The rating given is somewhat old school - others might find it more like 10a/b (?).

Location

10-15 minutes up and toward the west on the Mid-Columbine Trail. The base of the buttress is basically right on the trail, and The Nose is the obvious large roof directly above you.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed wires with rap rings above the roof. I'm not sure what's on top of the pillar for rappelling. It seems like there would be something up there, but it may be just a walk-off. If I go back, I'll go to the top, and update the description.

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