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Routes in Main Wall- Upper Tier

Air Voyager TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bunghole Slot T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gorgonzola TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pajarito Gorge Gully T WI3 M3
Poseidon Adventure, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 10 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 11 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 12 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 13 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 14 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 15 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 17 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route 19 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 21 T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Route 3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 4 TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 8 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 9 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake It Up S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spill the Wine TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 375 total, 4/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

With fun climbing and good gear, Route 14 is a great "first 5.9" for the aspiring leader. Not as tough as many of the 5.9 leads at the Playground, for instance.

Begin with moderate moves up a low angle dihedral, aiming for the featured and steep headwall above. This airy headwall presents the crux, but is easier than it looks due to an abundance of positive pockets and edges. Continue up similar, but slightly easier, terrain to the top.

Location

Route #14 in the .

To find Route #14, it's perhaps easiest to locate Route #16 ("Gorgonzola"). Spot the shiny bolts on Gorgonzola, then the thin crack just to its left (the thin crack is Route #15). Route #14 climbs the first obvious line left of the thin crack, starting in a blocky dihedral and finishing on a well featured face. If you spot a low bolt on a slab, leading to a flaring fingercrack, this is for Route #13, and you've gone too far.

Protection

Well protected. A single set of nuts and cams to a #3 camalot is sufficient. You will need to build a gear anchor.

Photos

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Pawel Janowski
WA
  5.9
Pawel Janowski   WA
  5.9
Careful with some loose rock. Well protected. Fun combination of layback, crack and fun face crux. Jul 18, 2014