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Routes in Main Wall- Upper Tier

Air Voyager TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bunghole Slot T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gorgonzola TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pajarito Gorge Gully T WI3 M3
Poseidon Adventure, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 10 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 11 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 12 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 13 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 14 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 15 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 17 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route 19 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 21 T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Route 3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 4 TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 8 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 9 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake It Up S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spill the Wine TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Elevation: 6,266 ft
GPS: 35.812, -106.2 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 2,545 total · 20/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Jan 7, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

This is a mostly south-facing basalt crag with trad and sport routes that are exposed and fun. This gets sun most of the day and is subject to winds because of the nature of the location.

Getting There

Once in White Rock, turn south on Rover and continue slightly past Rover Park and then take a right on Kimberly. Follow Kimberly to the end of the cul-de-sac and park. From the cul-de-sac on Kimberly, walk south to the cliff edge where you'll overlook the gorge and be above the crag. This is not the east-facing cliff that faces the Rio and the tire art (New New Place). The descent is not obvious. The descent is the only place that looks possible on the south-facing cliff. Descend exposed 4th class down blocks and hand cracks about 15'. Then traverse to the east on a 2' ledge around a corner followed by easier scramble downwards. This gets you to most of the rock climbs here. Rappelling is a good choice for beginners, or if you want to bring your pack to the base.

22 Total Climbs

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
The downclimb is not *that* bad, but it's still likely the trickiest in White Rock. If you don't like the looks of the downclimb described above, you can also scramble down the blocks about ten feet skier's left of the blank plaque/bench. This is more like 3rd class and less exposed, but is slightly loose.

To be clear, there are two distinct subareas of the Main Wall:

One subarea is climber's left of the "official" approach, and includes routes 1 -17. Some of the climbs, (at least the ones left of #7, maybe some others), face southwest, and therefore are climbable on summer mornings. The rest of the routes face southeast.

The other is climber's right of the "official", and includes routes 18 - 21. This area is directly below the bench/plaque. The climbs here face south, but there are enough deep dihedrals that they are relatively shady on summer mornings.

Both subareas are climber's left of the alternative approach I described.

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I agree with the comments on the main Pajarito Gorge page; there are some really good climbs here, and the area is well worth a visit or two. Sep 13, 2010

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