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Routes in Main Wall- Upper Tier

Air Voyager TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bunghole Slot T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gorgonzola TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pajarito Gorge Gully T WI3 M3
Poseidon Adventure, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 10 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 11 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 12 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 13 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Route 14 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 15 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 17 T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Route 19 T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Route 20 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 21 T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Route 3 TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 4 TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Route 6 T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Route 8 T,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Route 9 T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shake It Up S,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Spill the Wine TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 42 total, 0/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 21, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A beautiful line that ascends an aesthetic, mildly-overhung hand crack in a shallow dihedral, Route 6 is one of the finest crack climbs in White Rock. It's well worth the annoying approach to Pajarito Gorge, just to climb this one.

Start out with an improbable boulder problem up the thin crack directly below the obvious splitter. This opening section is arguably the the technical crux of the climb, but is well protected by finger-sized cams. After surmounting this initial trickiness, cruise up a lower-angled finger crack to a stance below the steep handcrack. Crank strenuous moves to get established in the hand crack, and do your best to hang on as sustained 5.9 and 5.10 jamming leads all the way to the cliff top.

Location

Route #6 in the .

On the left side of the Main Wall. Pretty much as far left as you'd want to go without a rope. Look for the obvious, steep splitter in a shallow dihedral. A few feet to the right is an overhung hands/fingers crack in a slot, which kind of looks like a cobra (this is "Bunghole Slot", Route 7). A few feet right of that is another obvious right-trending fist crack (the start of Route 8 and 9).

Protection

The pro is great, and available nearly everywhere. You will need to build a gear anchor at the top.

Rack:
BD cams from .3 to #3, as well as a TCU/C3 or two. Some doubles in the .75 to #3 range are useful (you don't necessarily need doubles on all these pieces). Stoppers optional.

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