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Routes in Carson's Tower

Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand In My Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Mark Whiton, solo, fall 1995
Page Views: 7,802 total · 70/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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22 Opinions

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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description [Edit]

Start by stemming between the two sections of the tower. There's no pro for the first little bit, but it's super easy. Clip two drilled pitons on the main formation and then step across, do a couple moves, and you're at the anchors.

See topo pic.

Location [Edit]

The route starts on the east side of the tower at the obvious cleft between the two parts of the formation. One (two, if you're looking from the right angle) drilled pins high up can be seen from the ground .

Protection [Edit]

#4 Camalot, #3 Camalot, shoulder-length sling (I had to lengthen it with a quickdraw...), a couple quickdraws or slings for the drilled pitons.

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Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I had looked at this a lot in Desert Rock III but the lack of any other information put me off. One weekend when I couldn't find a partner to climb with I decided to find this tower and climb it. It has two drilled pins on top, not one as stated in the Bjornstad guide.

This actually seemed a little bit harder than 5.7 to me... Maybe 5.8, but definitely no harder than that. This is probably the easiest summit in the Fishers. It's pretty safe, easy, and fun. Mar 16, 2009
Fun tower. cool moves involving stemming. the first piece is up a ways, I tied off the bolts, they stick out a little to far to clip the eyes... which seems to be the way of the fishers. Anchor replaced 11.7.09. Nov 8, 2009
sibylle Hechtel
Colorado
sibylle Hechtel   Colorado
I placed a #3 Camalot and a #4 Camalot, with long slings, below the pins (bolts? I can't remember). The step across is harder for the vertically challenged. My 6'2" son had no trouble, but I could reach nothing to hold on to. Mar 21, 2010
paul bucher
moab, utah
  5.8- R
paul bucher   moab, utah
  5.8- R
what a fun little tower. put this on your to do list. run out. i got one #3 camalot below the first pin. i agree with eric about the pins (theres two). there were two more for the anchor. 5.7+++ or just call it easy 5.8 move. Nov 17, 2012
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  5.7+ PG13
Fun little route! A little bit of a crypto dodging, wash scrambling hike in, but well worth it! Don't expect any good pro until clipping the first piton. I got in an okay #3 and slung a horn but both were extended so far they would have done little good. After the pitons are clipped through yourself across and hope for the best! From there it's an easy scramble to the top! Apr 24, 2013
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
For the shorter, there are slopey underclings with a divot thumb catch to help you step across. You'll still want to get your feet right, though. When I stepped my left foot across, I placed my toe just so and had my stance right and then knew I'd stick it even before committing to it. Oct 28, 2016
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
A red hex to the right before beginning the little chimney section seemed bomber. (See photo.) A #5 to the left on the same level was decent once fiddled in just right. Oct 28, 2016

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