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Routes in Carson's Tower

Original Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sand In My Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 50 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, 3/13/09, solo
Page Views: 885 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Start on the south edge of the tower and climb 5.7 to a ledge. Then comes the one and only aid move. Stick a lousy cam into a flaring crack (maybe offset cams would work a lot better!), pray that it won't pull, and step up on it. Hope the piece holds, and don't slip, because a fall will land you unpleasantly on the ledge. Once past that move, sling the funky horn with a cordalette, make a couple moves and sling another horn with a regular-length sling. Then comes the free climbing crux. It involves a slopey, sandy 5.8 mantle. If you fall, you'll pendulum down and left... After the mantle you can clip the anchors.

See topo pic for more beta.

As far as I know, this is a new route. If not, let me know and I'll fix it. Not that it means much in the Fishers, but the cracks were very dirty and muddy before I cleaned them out a bit, making me think that it probably hasn't been climbed before. The aid move could perhaps be freed without too much difficulty, but it sure would be scary above that ledge...

Location

The route starts on the south edge of the tower and then moves around to the east side.

Protection

A set of cams, one large nut. A cordalette or really long sling, several shoulder-length slings. See topo pic.

Photos

sibylle
Colorado
 
sibylle   Colorado
 
We climbed this after doing the original route, since we were there and it was there ...
The start is no longer 5.7 - perhaps numerous holds broke off. It's actually quite tricky, and took Tristan Hechtel three tries to lead. He fell off on an earlier attempt when the hold he was trying to use broke, which leads me to believe that various other holds have also vanished. I resorted to an ertrier on a nut to get on the climb. The start is quite undercut, and the first foothold is a long way up.
Tristan placed a green alien for the higher aid move, which was extremely solid. The ledge he belly-flopped onto was covered with loose rocks, sand, gravel, and mud; plus sloping down. I couldn't get onto the ledge even from standing in the aider, which he left behind. Instead, I pendulumed right and climbed up face moves to the right. Mar 21, 2010
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I climbed the Original Route first and then saw this route. At first I thought hmmm... I'll just climb that line next time I'm here. But then I realized that I probably wouldn't come back and that I might as well climb the route while I was already over there. So I climbed the tower twice in about an hour... The other route is easier and better, but this is a good time, as well. Mar 16, 2009