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Routes in Big Top

3 Ring Circus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fubar T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Gypsy Fortune TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lion Tamer T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
More My Speed T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Sawdust and Peanut Shells T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Under the Big Top S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Zelda T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, David Larsen, April 1989
Page Views: 363 total, 3/month
Shared By: john durr on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a nice 5 bolt face/friction climb on the north side's longest face. The moves are pretty good and consistent. The guide books rate this climb 5.10c, but it felt easier than Sawdust and Peanut Shells to me after leading both.

Protection

Five good bolts with old hangers provide good protection. The fourth bolt has no hanger or nut, a small wired stopper could be used on the stud adequately. A two bolt anchor at the top with ratty slings for the belay/rappel.

Photos

Richard Shore
  5.10c
Richard Shore  
  5.10c
1/4" buttonheads on this rig. Long rusty beards dripping from them, too. I thought this was harder than Sawdust and Peanut Shells, so I'll stick with the original 10c grade. Jan 3, 2012
Murf
  5.10-
Murf  
  5.10-
Not sure if I'd call these good bolts. The 2nd and 3rd hangers are Leepers, and the 4th (without a nut or hanger) has a very odd sleeve. Disappointing that the anchor would be upgraded (one good new bolt) without fixing at least the third and fifth bolts (cruxes). Mar 21, 2011