Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 444 total · 4/month
Shared By: john durr on Feb 9, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a very short, steep 3 bolt gymnastic face climb ending on Josh's inevitable loose grain. It starts at a right leaning rail and pops up to huge jugs. Move up past the third bolt (crux) then up and right.

Location

North face of the big top, about 100 feet west of 3 Ring Circus.

Protection

3 nice fat button head bolts, all spinners for protection. One great bolt for the anchor, 0.5-1" cams to back it up. Easy fifth class scramble right or rappel off the single bolt to get down.

Photos

Murf
  5.10d
Murf  
  5.10d
First bolt has been pounded partially flat (or mostly flat then fixed). as mentioned all bolts are spinners, and not very confidence inspiring. Large portions of the starting rail are very loose. With traffic and a bolt cleanup would be a fun diversion. Mar 21, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
"Under the Big Top" is the name I've heard for this route. Mar 22, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.11a
Richard Shore  
  5.11a
The "loose" sections of the starting rail may have been broken off, as evidenced by some fresh looking rock. A long reach move gets you past the initial rail to the huecos. You can also jump start to the big huecos from the adjacent boulder, but this approach shortens an already short climb by about 8 feet. Jan 3, 2012