All Locations > Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sycamore Canyon > Paradise Forks > Obsidian Wall

Heart of Darkness

Name: Heart of Darkness
Rating: 2.9

5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British R

Routes in The Obsidian Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Black Rose, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Block Walls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Heart of Darkness T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Negra Prima T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
	Rump Raisin' T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Traveling Violin Maker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Type:	Trad, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS:	35.13866, -112.02577
FA:	Jim Haisley et al. (early 80's)
Page Views:	1,981 total · 10/month
Shared By:	Larry Coats on Jan 2, 2009
Admins:	Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

A delightful and unique climb that starts to the right of Black Rose. Some slippery and tricky face climbing at the start leads to an excellent crack that combines with critical face holds to keep the rating reasonable. Key placements protect the climb throughout, but at the start are hard to find.

Protection

The upper crack protects on wires and small to medium cams, but the bottom is the crux for protection. A variety of small Tri-cams and opposition RPs can get you off the ground. Don't miss the horizontally slotted small stopper (#3?) that protects the pull over the overhang.