Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: B. Bindner and E. Holland October 2008. (P1 G.U., P2 T.D.)
Page Views: 4,171 total · 33/month
Shared By: Bruce Bindner on Oct 20, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


23 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1: An awkward entry move establishes you in a chimney. After thrutching upward for a bit, step out onto the steep left wall and climb up until the angle eases. The belay is on the left.

Pitch 2: Continue up low angle slab to a steep wall. Climb this, moving up and right, to a lower angle slab. Follow this to the belay ledge.

Descent: two 25m rappels (from Mussy Hooks) return to the ground.

Location

Walk left (south) along the base of Tall Wall from Rotten Bannanas until you encounter a low angle slab leading up to a bolted slot. This is the route, which follow a thin dike for two pitches.

Protection

P1: 6 bolts.
P2: 5 bolts.

Photos

Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
  5.9 PG13
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
  5.9 PG13
4th to 5th bolt on P1 is a bit run-out but easier than 5.9 climbing, the only drawback is the fall would suck down into that chimney. I brought some pro along and was happy to place it in a few spots along the route during some run-out sections -although most of those are again easier than 5.9 climbing. May 3, 2009
Bruce Bindner
  5.9
Bruce Bindner  
  5.9
Guess it's a good thing I rapped back down and added 3 more bolts to the first pitch after placing the first three on lead.

Do you see any need for an additional bolt between 4th and 5th?

What did you think of the finish to P2? uncharacteristic for the A-hills, for sure.

Brutus May 5, 2009
Blitzo  
I'll have to go do it. We miss you, Brutus! RIP. May 7, 2010
Michael Bartosek
Los Angeles
  5.9 PG13
Michael Bartosek   Los Angeles
  5.9 PG13
just completed another run on this route over the weekend, still loved it and found the upper slab to be much easier and well protected than I originally thought. Mar 12, 2012
BAd
5.9 PG13
BAd  
5.9 PG13
Loved this route, too. Solid 5.9 with some spice. Although the slab at the start of pitch two is a little run, it was the cross over into the upper corner that really got me going. The though of falling down over the edge you've just climbed was, well, spicy!

Congrats to Brutus (RIP). I loved his Stem Cell Research, too. Apr 24, 2012
RIP Blitzo and RIP Brutus! You join the greats (RIP Michael Strassman)(RIP Rollie Collins) that added greatness to the Alabama Hills. You Guys will always be remembered. Nov 17, 2013
Russ Walling
Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.7+
Russ Walling   Overlord @ FishProducts
  5.7+
I can hardly believe we are all talking about the same route. This thing is a loose and quasi contrived junker. First pitch is sorta ok and gets one star, maximum. Second pitch has 17 ft of so so climbing with one of the chossiest starts in the history of choss. Zero stars for this pitch. The grade depends on how much you want to force the line. With careful avoidance of the ubber choss you can make it about 5.7. Feb 9, 2016
Derek Field
California
  5.8
Derek Field   California
  5.8
Agreed that this is a contrived line that lacks sustained climbing. Puts you in a cool spot at the top though! Sep 19, 2016