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Routes in The Tall Wall

Back Trail S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Banana Hammock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bananarama S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Don't Dream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diamondblade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lives of the Cowboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotten Bananas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spur S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tall T S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,399 total, 12/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 14, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

To the right of "Bananarama", climb seams and face, passing a bolt, and the obvious wide crack. Move up and right from near the cracks top to anchors.

Protection

Pro to 3"-4" or wider.

Photos

grabski
N California
  5.9
grabski   N California
  5.9
5.9 at the most. A couple extra #4s, and a #5 were nice to have. This is a good climb to practice off-width technique. You can avoid climbing the crack the whole way with face moves and stemming. But then you avoid the fun hand and hand-fist stacks. Mar 28, 2016
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10a
I brought a #4 and #5 BD cam with me and had no trouble finding good spots for them.
Overall, super fun route. This was one of my first "harder" trad leads and was great! Nov 9, 2015
kenr
  5.8
kenr  
  5.8
Fun Top-Rope from its anchor (which we reached from above left, from Bananarama anchor). Top half is a fun dihedral (we stayed away from the wide crack in the back). Bottom has variety of moves using crack in different ways.

top-rope Variation lower half: The face between the Bananarama bolts and the lower cracks. Interesting moves, felt like 10c or so.
. . (some questionable small flakes -- bottom belay should stand off to the side)

top-rope Variation upper half: The arete which is the left boundary of the upper dihedral. Fun moves on very positive holds, felt like 5.6 or 5.5 Nov 28, 2014
RussellG
  5.9
RussellG  
  5.9
Fun crack with decent rests. A good 'feel good' crack with many face features on either side. Big gear up higher -#3 and #4. Aug 7, 2012
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
I agree with Bruce. I always thought the crux was around the bolt on the face at 5.9. After that, the crack feels 5.7ish or 5.8ish. I led it with a #4 and #5 C4 and felt relatively safe, though I do admit to sliding one of my cams up with me. Aug 29, 2011
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
We TR'd this one from the anchors to the right - it was certainly not 10a - pretty easy up the crack May 15, 2010
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I agree:

Calling this route a 5.10 is a stretch. I give it a 5.9 start, then 5.8 for the rest. Mar 1, 2009
Guidebook rates this climb 5.10a. Face entry feels like 5.9, but definitely not 5.8. Route takes pro to 8"

Cheers,
Brutus Oct 21, 2008