Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,778 total · 13/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Mar 14, 2008 with improvements by kenr
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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To the right of "Bananarama", climb seams and face, passing a bolt, and the obvious wide crack. Move up and right from near the cracks top to anchors.


Pro to 3"-4" or wider.


Guidebook rates this climb 5.10a. Face entry feels like 5.9, but definitely not 5.8. Route takes pro to 8"

Brutus Oct 21, 2008
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I agree:

Calling this route a 5.10 is a stretch. I give it a 5.9 start, then 5.8 for the rest. Mar 1, 2009
Reno, NV
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
We TR'd this one from the anchors to the right - it was certainly not 10a - pretty easy up the crack May 15, 2010
Josh Cameron
Josh Cameron   M.O.A.B.
I agree with Bruce. I always thought the crux was around the bolt on the face at 5.9. After that, the crack feels 5.7ish or 5.8ish. I led it with a #4 and #5 C4 and felt relatively safe, though I do admit to sliding one of my cams up with me. Aug 29, 2011
Fun crack with decent rests. A good 'feel good' crack with many face features on either side. Big gear up higher -#3 and #4. Aug 7, 2012
Fun Top-Rope from its anchor (which we reached from above left, from Bananarama anchor). Top half is a fun dihedral (we stayed away from the wide crack in the back). Bottom has variety of moves using crack in different ways.

top-rope Variation lower half: The face between the Bananarama bolts and the lower cracks. Interesting moves, felt like 10c or so.
. . (some questionable small flakes -- bottom belay should stand off to the side)

top-rope Variation upper half: The arete which is the left boundary of the upper dihedral. Fun moves on very positive holds, felt like 5.6 or 5.5 Nov 28, 2014
Mike Womack
Los Angeles, CA
Mike Womack   Los Angeles, CA
I brought a #4 and #5 BD cam with me and had no trouble finding good spots for them.
Overall, super fun route. This was one of my first "harder" trad leads and was great! Nov 9, 2015
N California
grabski   N California
5.9 at the most. A couple extra #4s, and a #5 were nice to have. This is a good climb to practice off-width technique. You can avoid climbing the crack the whole way with face moves and stemming. But then you avoid the fun hand and hand-fist stacks. Mar 28, 2016