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Routes in The Tall Wall

Back Trail S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Banana Hammock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bananarama S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Don't Dream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diamondblade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lives of the Cowboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotten Bananas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spur S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tall T S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, TR, 70 ft
FA: Tim Standing, 2007
Page Views: 1,588 total · 13/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Oct 14, 2008 with updates from kenr
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A recent addition to the Tall Wall, 'Tall T' was put up by Tim Standing in 2007. The route starts 10 feet right of 'Banana Split', by intially climbing somewhat loose flakes to the open slab above. Most find the crux in between bolts 3 and 4, as one makes delicate friction moves on "kitty litter".

Location

In addition to the description above, a variation exists (not shown in the current 'Bishop Area Rock Climbs' guide book) by initially climbing 'Banana Split' (the crack/seam which starts just left of Tall T) to its first bolt then traverse up and right, clipping a bolt underneath a buldge. Continue upward to the fourth bolt of 'Tall T'. This variation can be protected with small nuts (optional) after clipping the first bolt.

Protection

10 bolts. Mussey hooks for anchors.

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Although only "one" star was given for this route, the upper half of this route is excellent, providing a lesson in edging and slab skills. Oct 14, 2008
John Jackson
  5.10b
John Jackson  
  5.10b
This route must be cleaning up and is now a fun route. Nice sustained edging up a steep slab/face. Jan 3, 2009
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
I agree: this route proved to be quite fun and sustained. I definitely give it three stars. Mar 2, 2009
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
Loose crumbly flakey rock - pulled a big flake off just above the 3rd bolt (I think that was where it was).

Sustained climing - weather was windy crappy and cold (October 2009), making for a miserable climbing day. The route was definitely no gimmie even if the weather had been nice. I'd love to try it again, this time without the crumbling flake pulling off in my hand. May 15, 2010
Randy in Ridgecrest
Inyokern, CA
  5.10a/b
Randy in Ridgecrest   Inyokern, CA
  5.10a/b
This climb will save your sanity as the group you are with insists on spending another morning at The Tall Wall doing the same two climbs over and over and over. May 4, 2011
jfailing
Portland, OR
  5.10b
jfailing   Portland, OR
  5.10b
This route *may* have cleaned up a little bit, but the first bit of the climb is pretty grungy - particularly a mantle up onto a flaky hold that will eventually go...

The upper half is great! Typical A-hills crimp/edging. Sep 8, 2011
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
  5.10b
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
  5.10b
The left-hand alternate, which starts on Banana Split and then traverses right after that route's first bolt, is HIGHLY recommended. This allows you to skip some extremely scary rock on Tall T's first 3-4 bolts. Two dedicated bolts protect the travers over to Tall T. As mentioned by others the second half of Tall T exhibits good rock and great movement. Jan 27, 2014
Bailey Smith
Sacramento, CA
  5.10b/c
Bailey Smith   Sacramento, CA
  5.10b/c
Did this on top rope from Spur and it was my absolute favorite route in the Hills! Upper half is SUPERB balancy thin edges with solid (but thin) feet. Super crazy fun. On lead I think I would've found it a bit spicy, especially the first few bolts.

Also found the rock to be razor blade sharp, but FAR worth the pain! Sep 7, 2016
Cory Brooks
Fresno, CA
  5.10b
Cory Brooks   Fresno, CA
  5.10b
There is a large flake near the 3rd blot that is fractured and ready to come off. Yikes! Mar 26, 2017
BAd
  5.10b
BAd  
  5.10b
Did the regular route years ago but jumped on the alternate start today--first bolt of Banana Split then cut right. This is a MUCH better way to go--great rock pretty much all the way. Solid three stars and still 10b. I did place a smallish cam before getting to the second bolt. Nice to have but not absolutely necessary. Go do it! Mar 8, 2018
cachu
 
cachu  
 
+1 about the hollow flakes between bolts 3 and 4. don't lie it back. Apr 30, 2018

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