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Routes in The Tall Wall

Back Trail S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Banana Hammock S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Banana Split T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bananarama S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dead Don't Dream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Diamondblade S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dream On S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lives of the Cowboys S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rotten Bananas S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spur S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tall T S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Myles Moser (2015)
Page Views: 219 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jack C. Beckley on Apr 5, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Has a little bit of chess but overall has some good movement on good holds
Might be a little softer then 11a....maybe more like 10c

Location

This is the route just to the left of Rotten Bananas

Protection

Bolts all the way

Photos

Dane Larson
  5.10c/d
Dane Larson  
  5.10c/d
Led this in mid-Dec 2015, looked brand new and took a few chossy chunks for myself. As more people climb it will be interesting to see how it changes as there was a lot more that seemed to want to come off on my careful way up. Also, one of the bolts was sticking waaaay past the hanger, about 1.5" out. I tried unscrewing and helping it back in but it seemed bottomed out, hoping this was fixed.

Super fun lead, bolts well placed considering the dips and dives of the rock, carefully done to protect the rope from too much friction.

Totally hop on this if you're in the area. Take a lot of draws and use a 70m (if I remember correctly). Start on the ramp on the left of where you step up and into the steep part. If you're ok with runouts, don't bother clipping too low or bring an alpine. Next time I go I'll send more beta. Jul 12, 2017
FA Myles Moser 2015 Apr 5, 2017
Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
 
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
 
Any more information on beta or the first ascent, please post it. Apr 5, 2017