Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Myles Moser (2015)
Page Views: 629 total · 25/month
Shared By: Jack C. Beckley on Apr 5, 2017
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Has a little bit of chess but overall has some good movement on good holds
Might be a little softer then 11a....maybe more like 10c

Location

This is the route just to the left of Rotten Bananas

Protection

Bolts all the way

Photos

Jack C. Beckley
arcadia ca
  5.11a
Jack C. Beckley   arcadia ca
  5.11a
Any more information on beta or the first ascent, please post it. Apr 5, 2017
Dane Larson
  5.10c/d
Dane Larson  
  5.10c/d
Led this in mid-Dec 2015, looked brand new and took a few chossy chunks for myself. As more people climb it will be interesting to see how it changes as there was a lot more that seemed to want to come off on my careful way up. Also, one of the bolts was sticking waaaay past the hanger, about 1.5" out. I tried unscrewing and helping it back in but it seemed bottomed out, hoping this was fixed.

Super fun lead, bolts well placed considering the dips and dives of the rock, carefully done to protect the rope from too much friction.

Totally hop on this if you're in the area. Take a lot of draws and use a 70m (if I remember correctly). Start on the ramp on the left of where you step up and into the steep part. If you're ok with runouts, don't bother clipping too low or bring an alpine. Next time I go I'll send more beta. Jul 12, 2017
Eugenel Espiritu
PA
  5.11a PG13
Eugenel Espiritu   PA
  5.11a PG13
Last bolt before anchors in questionable spot; might be a hazard when you head to the chains as a fall would pendulum you into adjoining rock formation since it’s quite left of the finish. Consider skipping it and do the 15’ run out to the finish. I think it made the route a tad easier as you omitted one strong move. Excellent climb but some of the holds will break off in time (PG13). So it’s going to get harder. There is one V3ish move after the large chicken heads, so 5.11a is fitting. Most of it is 10c. Apr 30, 2018
alex carey
Los Angeles, CA
  5.11a
alex carey   Los Angeles, CA
  5.11a
I brought a few alpine draws but wished I'd extended almost everything to cut down on drag for when I went around the corner. Apr 30, 2018