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Routes in Crankenstein Boulder-Meat Walls

Cheifin S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dancing Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dashboard Jesus S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flat Fields T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Fuzzy Dice S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Knuckle Plums T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lips and Assholes S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lord of the Flies S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lumberjack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nuttin' but Nuts T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Processed Meat S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Red Faced Lizard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tommy the Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 55 ft
FA: Woody Delp, Clay Frisbie 1990
Page Views: 543 total, 5/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Oct 14, 2008 with updates
Admins: TylerKC

You & This Route


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Description

Great slab climbing in an area that doesn't have too many slabs. Climb the well protected lower slab to the ledge where the climbing becomes much easier. Good thing, because its a long way to that first bolt and there's no pro to be found.

At the first bolt, the angle tips more vertical. Climb past the first bolt, then another to the top out.

Location

This is the light colored south facing slab above three very large boulders downhill.

Protection

A few tiny to finger sized cams, 2 bolts. Anchor/rap on the tree slightly left of the line.

Photos

Dustin Stotser
Springfield, MO
 
Dustin Stotser   Springfield, MO
 
A worthy route, it does have a ground fall potential runout, but it's also a relative sidewalk compared to the rest of the route. The pink spot left by the wayward flake can be seen more clearly in pictures on the Red Faced Lizard page. Mar 28, 2016
It is apparent that a large flake has come off the route to the right of Flat Fields (Red-Faced Lizard?) and another smaller flake was pulled off today higher up, to the right of the anchors. Be diligent about checking rock quality on this route. Sep 13, 2015
Creed A
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Creed A   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I found three pieces down low. A few were micro cams. The run out to the first bolt is definitely a no-fall zone, but it is not 5.9 terrain. The 5.9 moves come after the bolts.

The bolted route to the right is fun. Probably about 5.8. May 26, 2014
Carol Fittell
Kansas City, MO
 
Carol Fittell   Kansas City, MO
 
This route now has bolted anchors. A new route has been put up (still on the slab) to the right, and is fully bolted with its own anchors. IMO the new route goes roughly the same grade as its neighbor and is equally as fun climbing. Mar 7, 2013
Austin Piper
Denver, CO
  5.9 R
Austin Piper   Denver, CO
  5.9 R
Fun route, as long as you don't mind ~30 of almost unprotectable 5.7 slab. I was a able to get in a red tricam in a pocket about 10 feet up, and couldn't find anything else until I reached the first bolt (maybe 20 feet or so later?). Yes, the slab before the bolts is easy (an this is coming from someone who doesn't have much experience on slabs), if maybe not as clean as one would like. If you think you would feel comfortable getting to that first bolt, and want to climb something completely different from everything else at Cave Creek while you are there, Flats Fields is an enjoyable route. Oct 24, 2010