Elevation: 2,005 ft
GPS: 35.844, -93.057 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 63,983 total · 386/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
Admins: Tyler KC, JD Borgeson

Description

Cave Creek offers great sandstone climbing. Many of the routes here are completely bolted, offering a destination for sport climbers. In addition, though, this area also hosts some excellent trad climbs.

The same ethics apply here as they do for Sam's Throne, though, so see that section for info.

Cave Creek is great in the fall, but also in the winter on good days, because much of it faces in a southerly direction.

PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.

Getting There

Follow directions for Sam's Throne.  Travelling about 3.4 miles south from Sam's on highway 123 will take you to the drive for Cave Creek on the left (There is a silver "C" painted on a tree next to the pull in). A 4-wheel drive/high clearance vehicle is handy here, or you can park out of the way before the giant mud puddle. Hike down the road and at the open area, head down the hill to the right on a trail.

If your vehicle can make it past the rough stuff, there will be an obvious pull off on the right to park with a fire ring just to the right of the pull off.  the standard downclimb and dogwalk approaches can be accessed by heading just slightly back up the road and to the left (south).

There are two main approaches: the standard downclimb approach and the dog walk approach.  Following the trail mentioned above will lead you downhill about five minutes until you to the top of a huge brain looking rock feature. In between this and the crag line is a chimney/fourth class downclimb that lands you in a tight hallway facing south.  Head down this hallway and you will be spit out between the Gravity Slab and Meltdown areas. Dogs can be taken up and down this if the dog is small enough to be picked up easily, but it is a struggle.  Alternately, when reaching the brain feature, head right (west) to access the dog walk approach.  This approach follows the top of the cliff line for about 10 minutes (leash recommended for dogs) until you hit an obvious water runoff and easy walk down.  You then head back east once you can access the bottom of the cliff line. this marks the western-most part of the climbing, which is the beginning of the Hippie Wall.

67 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cave Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 23
Dancing Queen
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 16
Flat Fields
Trad, Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Red Faced Lizard
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 29
Stems and Seeds
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Stick In Your Eye
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 22
Galaga
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 39
Slam Wow
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 28
Involuntary Manslaughter
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 16
Snake, Rattle, and Roll
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 43
Processed Meat
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 37
Lips and Assholes
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
Pac Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 5
Gravity Slab
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 34
Flying Elvis
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 33
Brick Attack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dancing Queen Cool Breeze Area
 23
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Flat Fields Flat Fields Slab & Su…
 16
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Sport
Red Faced Lizard Flat Fields Slab & Su…
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stems and Seeds Stems & Seeds Area
 29
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Stick In Your Eye Brick Attack Area
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Galaga Brick Attack Area
 22
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slam Wow Brick Attack Area
 39
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Involuntary Manslaughter Brick Attack Area
 28
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Snake, Rattle, and Roll Gravity Slab/Meltdown…
 16
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Processed Meat Meat Walls
 43
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Lips and Assholes Meat Walls
 37
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Pac Man Brick Attack Area
 22
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Gravity Slab Gravity Slab/Meltdown…
 5
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Flying Elvis Brick Attack Area
 34
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Brick Attack Brick Attack Area
 33
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cave Creek »

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