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Areas in Cave Creek

Brick Attack Area 2 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Cave Creek Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Cool Breeze Area 2 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Crankenstein Boulder-Meat Walls 5 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13
Gravity Slab/Meltdown Wall 5 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Hidden Wall & Big Eyes Wall 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Mama and Papa Toad Boulder 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Party Pants Wall 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
To See and Believe Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 2,005 ft
GPS: 35.844, -93.057 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 28,450 total, 213/month
Shared By: Erik Pohlman on Dec 24, 2006
Admins: TylerKC

Description

Cave Creek offers great sandstone climbing. Many of the routes here are completely bolted, offering a destination for sport climbers. In addition, though, this area also hosts some excellent trad climbs.

The same ethics apply here as they do for Sam's Throne, though, so see that section for info.

Cave Creek is great in the fall, but also in the winter on good days, because much of it faces in a southerly direction.


PLEASE NOTE!!!
It is NOT considered proper to hang permanent draws or chains in this area, especially on already established climbs. It is also STRONGLY discouraged on new lines that go up.



Getting There

This area is just up the hill from Mt. Judea, AR. The best thing would be to Mapquest that city. If coming from the north, once there, continue following AR-123 south, past a sharp left turn at a gas station. Take the next right, which is still 123. Follow it up about 4-5 miles. There, you will see Sam's Throne on the right. Another 3.4 miles will take you to the drive for Cave Creek on the left. A 4-wheel drive is handy here, or you can park out of the way before the giant mud puddle. Hike down the road and at the open area, head down the hill to the right on a trail.

63 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cave Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nuttin' but Nuts
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Red Faced Lizard
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Void of Judgement
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stems and Seeds
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Galaga
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Middle Aged Crisis
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slam Wow
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Son of Gimp
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Involuntary Manslaughter
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Snake, Rattle, and Roll
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Apostles and Pagan
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Thermonuclear Meltdown
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Pac Man
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flying Elvis
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brick Attack
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Nuttin' but Nuts Crankenstein Boulder-Meat Walls 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Red Faced Lizard Crankenstein Boulder-Meat Walls 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Void of Judgement Cool Breeze Area 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Stems and Seeds Gravity Slab/Meltdown Wall 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Galaga Brick Attack Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Middle Aged Crisis Cool Breeze Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Slam Wow Brick Attack Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Son of Gimp Cool Breeze Area 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Involuntary Manslaughter Brick Attack Area 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Snake, Rattle, and Roll Gravity Slab/Meltdown Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Apostles and Pagan Gravity Slab/Meltdown Wall 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Thermonuclear Meltdown Gravity Slab/Meltdown Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Pac Man Brick Attack Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Flying Elvis Brick Attack Area 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Brick Attack Brick Attack Area 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
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Photos

Arthur Nisnevich
Boulder, CO
Arthur Nisnevich   Boulder, CO
You turn off onto an old, "perpetually muddy" logging road. It is distinguished from all of the other muddy logging roads by a painted "C" on a tree. AWD is recommended. A short walk down and you should see cliffs. If you don't see cliffs, you got on the wrong road. Mar 16, 2008

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