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Routes in Waterfall Wall

40th Loss, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cool Your Jets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Kidsmoke S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Stuart & Brett Ruckman
Page Views: 4,003 total, 36/month
Shared By: steve edwards on Sep 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Follow 7 right-trending bolts up an overhanging weakness. Turn the lip for a no hands slab move, followed by a roof to the finish. A forgotten classic.

Location

West of Pentapitch above the creek. Shady and cool all the time.

Protection

bolts.

Photos

Rud Johansen  
 
Classic route that throws overhangs, side pulls, crimps, slab and jams at you all in 60 feet. Bolts still need to be replaced! They have gotten extra corrosion from the snow gully over the years and all spin. Still they held me for multiple trys to work the red point and the stone is granite. Aug 25, 2017
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
+1 for bolt replacement Oct 27, 2016
Ryan Arnold
  5.12a
Ryan Arnold  
  5.12a
Classic! Bolts are rusty and seem sketchy. Is the "bad bolts" website still being maintained? Hard to tell. Jul 18, 2016
Danie White
SLC, UT
 
Danie White   SLC, UT
 
For smaller people, I think it's easiest to finish straight up the corner. I didn't use the hidden lieback out left and never fell off those moves. Moving past bolt 4, on the other hand, was a worthy crux for me. High feet and fairly sequential moves are they key to gaining the next hold. Moving past bolt 3 wasn't easy either. Really fantastic route. Oct 26, 2014
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12a
This route is fantastic! A nice blend of steep sport climbing mixed with smeary granite foot placements typical of LCC. The bolts have glue placed on them to prevent corrosion. In my opinion, the bolts are ready for replacement. All of the studs and nuts are heavily corroded. Judging by the exterior appearance, I bet at least one of them is sketchy inside the bolt hole. Just a matter of time til we find out which one is severely corroded inside. Sep 15, 2014
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is a great route. All the bolts are in the right places, the moves are tough and thought provoking, and there are a handful of decent rests along the way to stave off the pump. I found the hardest climbing around bolts 3-5; the slab move is tricky but you have a nice rest there to look it over before committing. Great topout as well. The bolts are not glue-ins, but they are in pretty good shape (by LCC standards). Jul 9, 2014
Spencer Weiler
Salt Lake city
 
Spencer Weiler   Salt Lake city
 
Ruckman's found a gem with this one. Steep roundy blocks to a huge spike jug start you off, followed by weird liebacking while throwing your leg around an arete of sorts. The tenuous slab move above requires faith the crystal nubbin will hold your left foot, then a strenous undercling clip over a roof leads to the devious finish where a hidden bomber lieback crack out left is the ticket to reaching the clipping jug. Best sport climb in the canyon(yes, even better than "all chalk") Jun 2, 2014
Surprisingly pumpy and fun granite climbing. One of my favorite sport pitches in the canyon. May 25, 2014
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Unless it's been rebolted, the bolts aren't glue-ins. The hangers are glued to the rock. Big difference. May 17, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.12a
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.12a
Two distinct cruxes. Awesome moves following a right trending feature to an amazing finish! Bomber glue in bolts. May 17, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.12a
Fun strenuous line with a bunch of unlikely moves. The final mantle might force you to resort to some kind of treachery when pumped.
The bolts look way crusty. Bring a brush, erase your tickmarks. Nov 7, 2009