Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Todd Hammond 9/2015
Page Views: 1,003 total · 25/month
Shared By: Todd H on Sep 9, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Mantels lead to a tricky crux sequence culminating with a big jump move from a pair of slopers. Continue with more steep pulling, a short slab, then a final steep section with fun compression moves.

Location

The farthest left route on the wall, immediately left of Cool Your Jets.

Protection

6 bolts to chain anchors. An optional #.75 Camalot can sew up relatively easy climbing between 4th and 5th bolts. The sloping ledge below the crux might appear hazardous for the falling leader, but it's actually a clean fall - the rock is steeper than it looks.

Photos

This route is definitely in line with bouldering in the canyon. The granite is similar to a mix of the Hidden Forest and the Far Side. If you like the body tension, slopers, pinches and dynos over there, this route is for you.

The wall is almost always shady so it might be better to work on a dry cool summer morning or anytime in the late spring through fall. Aug 27, 2017